Kefalonia and Her Southern Shores – Part 2 of 3

Within two weeks, I was back! This time to the southern half, beneath her mountainous ridge, her bays of golden sand, and her view of Zante’s neighboring island.

The water is family-friendly as it slopes gradually to its depths under a smooth flooring of sand. The blue sky’s vivid colors, the Cézanne-style white rocks, and brown earth all protrude in the sharp, pronounced definition.

the southern shores of Kefalonia
Villa Rosa.

Certainly, this island is very much at ease with its providence. Local life presides over the touristic, giving it a languid timeless vibe. In the true Mediterranean tradition, the men sit about in their cafés, garrulous and gesticular, putting the world to rights. One shepherd, complete with his crook and sheepdogs, was herding his flock of two hundred at sundown with the sound of their bells chiming in the breeze—a pure and perfect setting of pastoral harmony.

the southern shores of Kefalonia

I hired a car from Rentcarkefalonia run by the charming Apostolis. Their greatest asset was my ability to get away instantly from airport interiors and queues and literally a minute’s walk away down a lane with trees. I was already experiencing the warmth and nature that was to set the tone for my journey ahead.

Within twenty minutes, I had come to where I was to stay at Villa Rosa, a select and classy set of self-catering holiday homes. The interior is super-clean and fresh and decorated with rattan and wicker baskets and other creative and welcoming touches.

the southern shores of Kefalonia

Outside are balconies at every angle from which to catch the sun or look out to the beautiful sea beyond. Set in a spaciously landscaped garden with a lush lawn that’s indulgently spongy underfoot are fruit trees, palm trees, and flowers.

From my hammock, I could enjoy the coastline that’s visible as far as Lourdas beach, where row upon row of unfurling waves crashed into separate bays. I found watching these waves as mesmeric as the water’s different colors changed from Egyptian blue to mazarine, from turquoise to teal.

Villa Rosa comes with the dramatic backdrop of Ainos Mountain that rises to an impressive height of 5000 feet and has, like a spinal cord, a ridge comparable to Cape Town’s Camps Bay that at night is lit up magically as it seemingly reflects the stars above. In front, the villa looks out over the shimmering Ionian Sea and beyond, forty miles away, to Zante’s neighboring island (Zakinthos).

the southern shores of Kefalonia
Lourdas Bay

I walked down a steepish road from the villa in blissful silence to Denis Seaside Restaurant. It’s the most romantic of strolls under a canopy of bright stars as I began my descent to hear and then see the waves lapping the shoreline.

the southern shores of Kefalonia
Local church

The décor at the restaurant is an expression of the natural in all her simplicity. There are white wooden trellis panels, lights made out of driftwood, a carpet of pristine white pebbles, a roof made out of bamboo, and even a rock that’s lit up at night to celebrate nature. I was able to continue my walk’s enjoyment of all the elements, entertained as I was by nature’s diversity of sights, sounds, smells, and tastes. With no electronic artifice, it all felt extremely nourishing.

Another evening I went along the strollable strand at Lourdas beach. To dispel any thoughts of mosquitos, I always recommend the natural Canelle Spray (www.cinnamonhill.com), which is very effective and has a cinnamon aroma far preferable to that of the citronella variety. I embarked on an enchanting climb up its own private path to experience the culinary secrets of Lorraine’s Magic Hill.

the southern shores of Kefalonia

The food from her Magic Hill comes from the sea or the restaurant’s organic gardens and allotment. Lorraine delivers the spongiest of fresh bread, and there’s no doubting the difference in the taste of her homemade feta cheese made from goat rather than sheep milk. Another delight was her ‘melitzanosalata’ comprising roasted aubergines dip, made with goat’s yogurt, garlic, parsley, and herbs and served with pita bread.

I went for early evening drives when the light is at its photogenic best through villages as delightful as Kaligata and Spartia with the vivid colors of their walls and houses and the striking facades of their churches. By dusk, a canopy of stars consistently would come out with confident clarity. Once even orange in color, the moon shone with glistening effect upon the calm and agitated waves in equal measure.

The Greek Mediterranean diet is very organic. The local restaurants offered simple and authentic classic dishes: many of them coaxed out of grannies and aunts whose idea of a recipe was a pinch of this and a sprinkle of that.  And here back up the top of Lourdata is a strip of restaurants and other touristic attractions where the versatility of the locals is highly admirable as I met Marinos, very evidently the local fix-it man, owning not just his Captain Zorbas restaurant, with its wonderful upstairs veranda, but a couple of villas, a rent-a-car firm and even offering donkey rides.

Along with this strip is the restaurant La Mer. I chose from a range of salads that included Greek, rocket, summer, and Caesar. This went perfectly with my honey roast pork, tempted though I was by the recommended pesto-baked salmon. For dessert, what better, I sometimes thought, than the sheer simplicity of two scoops of dark chocolate-pitted ice cream.

Tucked away at the end of the road from the other restaurants on the strip is Kefalonia. The setting is at a perfect height to enjoy a panoramic view down upon Lourdas beach and across to what can often be in Kefalonia a spectacular sunset. Here I enjoyed a delicious vegetable moussaka and a traditional Corfu recipe of Beef Sofrito.

I must go back, whenever but soon! READ 3 of 3

FACTBOX
Adam had support from Stansted Express (www.stanstedexpress.com). He reached Gatwick Airport via Southern Railway (www.southernrailway.com) as well as from Holiday Extras, the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers, who aim to find you a hotel and parking package that’s cheaper than the cheapest airport parking on its own (on two-week breaks). To book the Hilton at London Gatwick Airport, visit HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.

Adam Jacot de Boinod
Adam Jacot de Boinod is a freelance international journalist covering the world's languages, cultural comparisons, and travel destinations. He worked on the first series of the BBC program QI for Stephen Fry and is an author on languages.

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Kefalonia and Her Southern Shores – Part 2 of 3