Spanning an area of around 495,000 acres of pristine landscapes with prolific wildlife sightings, Khwai Community Concession’s vastness makes it a preferred destination amongst safari-goers.

Starting my journey on a Thursday morning, I’m delighted to visit one of my all-time favorite African countries again, this time with the conservation-conscious and authentic African Bush Camps (ABC). Departing Cape Town International Airport on my direct Airlink flight to Maun International Airport, the anticipation amongst return and first-time visitors is contagious as they make their way to the landlocked beauty that is Botswana.

The pool area at Grays Eden. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
The pool area at Grays Eden. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

I am spending two nights at the gorgeous Mediterranean-style Grays Eden, whose owners, Sam and Sandrine Morris, have created the perfect pre- or post-safari experience for guests who would like to start their safari journey relaxed, or conclude it on a high note, living in the moment a little bit longer. From the moment I set foot in Grays Eden, a sense of home is very real, coupled with spacious and deluxe accommodation, delicious food, and hospitable staff.

One of the most memorable leopard sightings of my life was thanks to loads of patience and my guide, Gee, at another camp in Botswana. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
One of the most memorable leopard sightings of my life was thanks to loads of patience and my guide, Gee, at another camp in Botswana. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Back at Maun airport following a wonderfully relaxing sojourn, I feel refreshed and ready for my fixed-wing flight with Wilderness Air to Khwai airstrip. It’s a scenic 30-minute flight after which I touch down in the Cessna 208B Grand Caravan. Waiting for me is my guide for the duration of my stay at Khwai Lediba, and he introduces himself as Ginjah. Having gone on safari for many years, I recognize his face – he was my guide when I visited Botswana in 2022 and went by the name Gee. Instrumental in one of the most memorable leopard sightings of my life, I clamber into the ABC 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser as we head towards the camp, which is a 45-minute drive away.

Communal dining is encouraged at Khwai Lediba. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps
Communal dining is encouraged at Khwai Lediba. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps

It is wonderful to arrive at camp in the late morning, well in time for brunch, which is served on the dining deck overlooking the floodplains. Communal dining is encouraged, and spending time with your host or guests from other countries makes for interesting conversations. Head Chef Basian and team ensure that all dietary needs are catered for, with brunch being buffet-style meals, dinner is a three-course selection, and pre-game drive continental breakfast is enjoyed on the sunken deck around the firepit.

A red lechwe is seen from my tented suite and the pool. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
A red lechwe is seen from my tented suite and the pool. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

With a variety of comfortable seating options in the main lounge, guests seem to gravitate towards this area as the coffee machine is close by, there is a variety of books to read, and a friendly waiter is always available to take your drinks order or serve you something to nibble on. My preferred place, apart from my luxurious tented suite, is the sparkling pool where the resident male red lechwe is grazing in the distance. These semi-aquatic antelopes are found in and around wetlands of south-central Africa, with their heart-shaped noses giving them an endearing quality.

The tented suites are dreamy spaces with views of the bushveld. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps.
The tented suites are dreamy spaces with views of the bushveld. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps.

I am staying in tented suite number 3, a short walk from the main area along a sandy footpath. The architectural design, led by ABC Founder & CEO, Beks Ndlovu, and Elena Bellavite from ArchIdea, was shaped by a commitment to environmental sensitivity and site-specific integration. Blending into the landscape, the structures were designed with minimal disruption to the natural terrain. Materials were used for their light environmental footprint and clean, simple lines, whilst at the same time balancing functionality and guest comfort with a minimalist, eco-conscious aesthetic, and thus maintaining harmony with the wilderness.

Muted, earthy tones were used for the camp to merge with its surroundings. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps
Muted, earthy tones were used for the camp to merge with its surroundings. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps

The palette of Khwai Lediba was intentionally kept to muted, earthy tones that allow the camp to merge seamlessly with its surroundings. Rather than competing with the natural beauty of the Khwai region, the interiors and exteriors were designed to complement it. Sustainable design principles guided the built environment through respect for the landscape, ensuring that it feels tranquil, grounded, and harmonious with the bush.

Overlooking the floodplains, the pool at Khwai Lediba is very inviting. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps
Overlooking the floodplains, the pool at Khwai Lediba is very inviting. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps

With sustainability at the heart of ABC, it was central to both the architectural and operational planning of Khwai Lediba. The camp runs on solar power and has its own water treatment plant. Materials were transported in containers, which were then reused in the construction of back-of-house areas, reducing waste and resource consumption.

The firepit is where pre-game drive breakfast or post-game drive sundowners are enjoyed. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps
The firepit is where pre-game drive breakfast or post-game drive sundowners are enjoyed. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps

For the interiors, the majority of furniture was repurposed from ABC’s Khwai Bush Camp. Instead of discarding these items, they were given a second life through onsite reupholstering with updated fabrics. This significantly cut down on transport needs and avoided unnecessary contributions to the landfill. Any new furniture was locally made in Botswana, supporting regional craftsmanship and further reducing carbon emissions from long-distance shipping.

The Camp is set in lush vegetation. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps
The Camp is set in lush vegetation. Photo courtesy of African Bush Camps

Logistical challenges came in the form of transporting materials to the site in an environmentally responsible way due to it being a remote build. Elena and her team embraced these constraints as opportunities to innovate. They reused containers and repurposed furniture, which became both a practical and sustainable solution. Not only did they overcome challenges with this approach, but turned them into integral parts of the design and sustainability narrative.

An African Wild Dog in the Khwai concession. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
An African Wild Dog in the Khwai concession. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Part of a stay at Khwai Lediba is exploring the bushveld with their twice-daily game drives. There is always an air of excitement, especially exploring such a huge concession and finding the wildlife that inhabits it. The importance of your guide being in the know of the fauna and flora is a crucial aspect of seeing wildlife up close and personal. With Ginjah in the driver’s seat, I’m confident that we will find some amazing animals, and we start our drive with a pack of twelve African Wild Dogs! Most of them are asleep, but one is sitting upright, almost posing for the camera.

A beautiful leopard known as Big Boy. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
A beautiful leopard known as Big Boy. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Ginjah goes in search of the most elusive of them all – the leopard. There are a few that have recently been spotted, and some are relaxed while others are skittish and run away when the vehicle approaches. We find him under a tree, but he is moving so swiftly through the dense foliage that we are unable to track him. His name is Big Boy, referring to the fact that he is the dominant male in the area. He pops out on the other side of the bushes and momentarily lies down to catch his breath. What he doesn’t know is that there is a male lion about 300 feet away from him! He points his head up and sniffs the air, catching a whiff of the lion. Big Boy decides to rather leave than look for confrontation and disappears into the thicket.

A pair of lilac-breasted rollers. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
A pair of lilac-breasted rollers. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

The birdlife is magnificent, with so many different species occupying the region. An African Fish Eagle’s call can be heard from the lodge, and looking up at the top of the trees to see what birds might be perching there gives a game drive a different perspective. One of the most photographed birds must be the colorful lilac-breasted roller, and seeing a pair of them on the bare branches of a tree before they take off is magical, especially as they display their iridescent colors.

The cutest lion cub on our morning game drive. Photo by Heléne Ramackers
The cutest lion cub on our morning game drive. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

A highlight is happening upon a pride of lions with four females and four cubs. The cubs are tackling each other in a playful manner while the mothers are attempting to rest, which is not going too well. A cub targets the tip of his mom’s tail, which probably resembles a paintbrush. She flicks it back and forth, much to the cub’s annoyance. We find them out in the open the following morning, a sure indication that ABC has created an authentic safari experience, a memory that I will treasure forever.

 

How To Book | Heléne’s journey was hosted by African Bush Camps. Founded in 2006 by Zimbabwean-born safari guide Beks Ndlovu, African Bush Camps offers 17 unique safari experiences across Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Zambia – from remote, luxury camps in the heart of the African bush to wildly luxurious lodges. What truly sets them apart is their exceptional guiding team, with nearly 600 years of combined guiding experience, ensuring you’re always led by the best in the business.

As one of the few Black-owned safari companies, African Bush Camps is proudly redefining African tourism. Every stay directly supports local communities through education, conservation, and entrepreneurship initiatives, because tourism should empower the places and people that make these experiences possible.

Whether you’re exploring Victoria Falls, witnessing the wildlife of Hwange National Park, or gliding through the Okavango Delta, African Bush Camps offers front-row seats to Africa’s most breathtaking landscapes and authentic African Experiences.

Join the journey of “Sharing and Conserving Africa Together.”

Plan your African adventure at africanbushcamps.com, email contact@africanbushcamps.com, or call +27 21 701 0270.