For centuries, India has fascinated the West with its magnificent architecture, rich culture, and spiritual traditions. Travelers have long journeyed to the subcontinent to discover its mysticism, temples, textiles, and cuisine. Among them was Parisian high jewelry artist Lydia Courteille, who drew deep inspiration for one of her earlier collections, the evocative Indian Song.
Though created years ago, Indian Song remains a celebrated part of Courteille’s work. The collection reflects her extensive travels across the Silk Route, China, and, most significantly, India. After countless journeys through the subcontinent, she reimagined legends, sculptures, and vibrant colors through her signature craft—jewelry. With twelve unique pieces, Lydia Courteille captured the essence of India’s architecture, mythology, animals, and festivities. “I think it is the beginning of a very, very large collection,” she noted in an interview at the time.
Inspired by the mythology
The Indian Song collection opens with the Khajuraho Ring, a piece inspired by the famous Khajuraho Temple in Madhya Pradesh, built between 950 and 1050 AD. Known for its erotic sculptures, the temple embodies the idea that spirituality and bodily pleasures need not be separate. Courteille recreated this philosophy in a ring with sandalwood carvings recalling the temple’s colors, framed by deep red tourmaline—a jewel both simple and complex.
Another highlight is the Madurai Temple Ring, inspired by the colorful towers of the Madurai Temple in Tamil Nadu, dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Courteille translated its vibrant stucco figures into cabochon sapphires, rubies, and spinel. Inside the ring lies the face of the goddess, while the design also nods to the snake deity Naga, ruler of the underworld. Completing this section are the Apsara Earrings, crafted in sandalwood to depict celestial dancers from Hindu mythology.
Inspired by the architecture
India’s most iconic landmark, the Taj Mahal, also found its way into Indian Song. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal blends Islamic, Ottoman, Indian, and Persian influences. Courteille honored this masterpiece with a pendant necklace set in emeralds and sapphires, symbolizing eternal love.
Equally striking is the Naga Necklace, inspired by carvings at Mahabalipuram near Chennai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Granite reliefs there tell the story of the Mahabharata, including the serpent deity Naga. Courteille transformed this mythical presence into an intricate jewel.
Inspired by the animals
Animals, deeply tied to Indian mythology, also influenced Courteille. The Peacock Necklace celebrates India’s national bird and the goddess Saraswati’s sacred companion. Its feathers unfurl in tanzanites, emeralds, yellow sapphires, diamonds, and tsavorites, paired with an antique glass perfume bottle.
Equally imaginative is the Karni Mata Ring, inspired by the temple where thousands of rats are revered as reincarnations of Karni Mata’s descendants. An opal at its center represents milk offerings, while sapphires and diamonds form the tiny rats.
Inspired by the culture
Courteille also embraced India’s cultural vibrancy. Her Ganesha Ring represents Diwali, the festival of lights that celebrates the return of Lord Rama and Sita. A burst of emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds captures the joy of the celebration.
Another tribute to tradition is the Turra Earrings, inspired by ornaments once worn with turbans in Jaipur. Spinels, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds recall the grandeur of the city’s royal past. Similarly, the Hummingbird Turra Ear-Pendants combine emeralds, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, spinel, turquoise, and black rhodium-plated gold in a dazzling homage to artistry and culture.
A Legacy Collection
Although Indian Song is one of Lydia Courteille’s older collections, it remains timeless. By drawing on India’s temples, myths, animals, and festivals, Courteille translated centuries of heritage into jewels that continue to inspire. The collection underscores her role as one of Paris’s most daring jewelry designers—a storyteller whose creativity bridges cultures, history, and art.
