Skilfully milled and woven from rare, naturally occurring fiber, English tweed offers style and slouchy. Easy elegance and refinement. Something quiet, slow, and artisanal. Whether that be in the mud or chocolate.
RUSKIN was inspired by a very wet day in the Lake District. Says founder and designer Alli Abdelal: “I was soaked and freezing and met this farmer. He said: “Next time, line your shoes with some Herdwick wool to keep your feet warm and dry. There’s so much value in that wool; you could really do something useful with it.”
In 2015, Alli created an innovative, regenerative fabric rooted in the landscape in which she had grown up. Ruskin subsequently launched in 2016 with a collection of hand-crafted bags made in Rome, blending the world’s finest Arzignano leathers and RUSKIN’s custom Herdwick tweed, milled and woven at Laxton’s Mill in West Yorkshire.
Says mill manager, Alan Thornber: “Herdwick wool is a force of nature; it has so much rich character, but it is not always an easy fiber to manage. The process of creating a highly durable yarn, that can be successfully purposed for a luxury bag, is, therefore, time intensive our biggest challenge is around people, not machinery. All you need for machinery is money.
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Getting the right people to turn out top-quality products is what’s really important. We take great pride in what we produce, and we have a real connection and satisfaction with what we do. Sadly, there isn’t as much demand for textile technology in colleges and university courses now. As we collectively lose these skills, it’ll become more and more important to pass on the knowledge.
The RUSKIN tweed collection is woven from the wool of the protected sheep that live in the mountains of the English Lakelands. Herdwick sheep are considered the hardiest of British hill sheep and the natural protective properties inherent in the wool make it both durable and pliable, and give it a waterproof coating.
“Herdwick wool doesn’t sit so well on the skin as it’s quite tough and durable which makes it perfect for a sturdy bag, “says Alli, the daughter of a mountaineer and guide.
Growing up in a ten-house village called Hutton Roof near Penrith, she attended Durham University and went into teaching before leading the consultancy team for the Race Equality and Diversity Service in Cambridge. She then moved to New York and in 2013, she qualified as a designer at the New York Institute of Interior Design.
“My time in New York was all about discovery and rediscovery. I rekindled my interest in mid-century design and the Bauhaus Movement when I moved to the United States in 2012. Perhaps it was something of a reaction to having lived the previous two years in Dubai, renowned for its innovative and ambitious, but constantly evolving, approach to design. At the New York Institute of Interior Design, I was able to delve deeper into color theory, materials, and the holistic approach of this period. The free-thinking, pioneering worlds of Arne Jacobsen, Mies van der Rohe, and the lesser-known, rather underappreciated talents of Annelise Albers and designer Marianne Brandt, fuelled my interest. What I appreciated most in my studies was the emphasis on experimentation and problem-solving in design work. You need to be comfortable with both these aspects when working in design, especially when it comes to creating anything new and innovative, as inevitably you’ll experience bumps and grinds along the way.”
She is now designing “elegant lifestyle pieces” from her studio and shop in Oxford.
“We created the tweed collection to bring an entirely fresh proposition with a naturally occurring, but little-used fiber. To procure enough Herdwick wool we source from a range of farms only in the English Lake District. We source our fleeces through British Wool who ensure that farmers receive a fair price for the wool. My greatest connection is to the farms in the Borrowdale Valley as I grew up and went to school with some of the children from those farms.
Herdwick wool is an extremely difficult fiber to manage due to the complex manufacturing processes involved. For years, this type of wool has yielded very little return for farmers with some fleeces even being burned. Despite having grazed on the upland Lakeland fells for thousands of years and having a protected status, Herdwick is a breed at risk.
The wool is passed through three mills in Yorkshire before being carefully cleaned and combed ahead of being slowly spun into a fine worsted yarn. It is then sent to be woven and washed in natural soap and well water drawn from below the mill. It remains undyed and is dried and pressed before being shipped to Italy. The result is a high-performing, low-impact fabric used with leather to make £565 tote bags, £860 Chesters, £780 Cuthberts and Weekenders as well as £255-465 clutches.
“Defining a new paradigm in artisanal quality”, the Quentin Weekender is designed to be generous in proportion while balancing a classic sensibility with a contemporary aesthetic. Superior craftsmanship complements the rich natural texture and warmth of the tweed to ensure the Quentin Weekender is the perfect companion for a night or weekend away.
Principally made out of RUSKIN Tweed the Weekender is hardwearing, naturally water-resistant but both stylish and elegant. Comfort is key and thus The Weekender features a leather crossbody detachable strap with shoulder pad and travel sleeve to fit securely onto a suitcase. Also kissing zips.
“WE designed the Kepler for a unique mindset, for the connoisseurs seeking exceptional design and high-quality materials. The Kepler optimizes the use of our low-impact, Herdwick tweed to deliver style, comfort, and lightweight durability, in equal measure.
“The bag names are linked to people with a visionary or pioneering spirit; Kepler for example in astrology and Quentin in illustration.”
