The former personal getaway for the late Kenneth Kaunda, Zambia’s first President, has undergone the most astounding transformation, putting it firmly in the ultra-luxury safari lodge category.
Having stayed at my fair share of safari lodges over the years, I’m not often at a loss for words. Arriving at Chichele Presidential on a Saturday afternoon, words fail me as the feeling of stepping back in Zambian history, coupled with the overwhelming sense of nostalgia, is quite emotional. Collected at Mfuwe International airport by Lodge manager Fred, it’s like seeing an old friend again, as I met him during my stay at Puku Ridge in 2023. Driving through South Luangwa National Park, we spot wildlife along the way and in just more than 60 minutes, I arrive at Chichele Presidential to song and dance by the hospitable staff.
Lodge anchor Mirriam is at hand to show me to my table for brunch, which is set up overlooking the croquet lawns and the beautiful views. She tells me that the buffalo love coming to this piece of greenery for a feed as it probably tastes very nice. Butler Jacob serves some water in the pure crystal Chichele Presidential glasses and presents today’s menu, which consists of ciabatta rolls, eggs Benedict, mezze of the day, Chichele Café bream fishcakes, and ices of the day. I opt for the lamb kebabs with chimichurri and shoestring fries, deliciously prepared by sous chef Elijah and his team, and vanilla bean ice cream for dessert.
Before sitting down to eat, Mirriam accompanies me around the main area where there is a winter and summer lounge, with the latter having framed photographs of Kenneth Kaunda, paying homage to this much-loved and respected head of state. Jacob is busy in the bar area whipping up a decaf latte for me, and across from where he is crafting the perfect beverage is the boma, where barbeques are made.
On the opposite side, guests can enjoy meals in the formal dining room, where a life-size oil on canvas painting of Kenneth Kaunda has been placed alongside the piano, which evidences his love for music. In the one corner, two brown leather chairs have been cordoned off, another nod to Kenneth Kaunda, as these were his favorite seats to recline in, which are on long-term loan by the Kaunda family as a gesture of goodwill. I see someone walking towards me – it’s Michel, who is the General Manager for both Puku Ridge and Chichele Presidential. Our paths have crossed on various occasions through the years at lodges where he used to work. Seeing a familiar face makes the stay even more special, and Michel joins me on safari and for dinner one evening, paving the way for an experience that would be a memorable one.
Chichele Presidential joined the Chiawa Safaris portfolio in April 2025, complementing Old Mondoro, Chiawa Camp, and Puku Ridge perfectly. Chiawa Safaris owners Grant and Lynsey Cumings worked hand in hand with the owners and the design and architecture team to develop Chichele into the impressive product it is today. “We are elated with the result of this ambitious project that has been seven years in the making,” Grant and Lynsey say. “The vision and commitment of Chichele Safaris, combined with expertise, passion, and the spirit of cooperation in all aspects, has culminated in something really extraordinary. We are humbled that the Kaunda Family feels we have honored Dr Kaunda appropriately, and we, as Chiawa Safaris, endeavor to uphold the history and esteem that is tangible at Chichele Presidential.”
Tasked with the new lodge was South African hospitality design firm Fox Browne Creative, with owners Debra Fox and Chris Browne heading up the project. “The brief from our client was to reimagine Chichele Presidential as a contemporary luxury safari destination while honoring its legacy as Zambia’s only Presidential Lodge,” Debra and Chris tell me. “The lodge needed to retain its historical spirit while offering a modern, refined safari experience. The client emphasized preserving the lodge’s rich history while introducing bold, contemporary elements. The new owners wanted to keep as much of the original lodge’s spirit as possible.”
Situated in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, Chichele Presidential is set at the top of a hill with sweeping views of the valley where you might see large herds of buffaloes in the distance or encounter some on the way to or from your Vista suite as the camp is not fenced, so wildlife can appear at any given moment. Remaining respectful to the environment, Fox Browne let the consideration for the landscape guide every decision by reusing original building platforms and current foundations of the entire main guest areas to minimize impact. The architecture, done by Fox Browne Creative in partnership with Jack Alexander, was carefully shaped to sit within the contours of the hilltop, rather than dominate, with locally sourced materials used wherever possible, thus avoiding unnecessary new build by working within the lodge’s existing footprint.
I am staying in Vista Suite number 7, which is a short walk from the main area. Guests can also make use of the golf cart, and your housekeeper (mine is Clement) will collect or drop you off at a pre-arranged time. With only ten Vista suites, the sense of exclusivity is very real, and as Mirriam unlocks the large black metal front door, I quietly gasp, hoping no one has noticed. Procuring and producing as much as possible with regional artisans, Fox Browne reused and repurposed whatever furnishings they could from the old lodge, both for environmental reasons and to maintain respect for the property’s heritage.
“The palette for the interiors was inspired by Zambia itself,” Debra and Chris disclose. “Chichele means salt in the local Chewa language, so we used off-whites drawn from salt, rich ebony tones from the charred timber site, and copper accents given Zambia’s rich copper industry. The clay color was motivated by the earth and the deep hue of the soil in the Luangwa valley. A country well-known for its craft of weaving, we employed a number of Zambian artisans who produced woven elements such as carpets, furniture panels, textiles, bespoke light fittings incorporating natural textures and mid-century details to reflect a refined contemporary safari aesthetic.”
My suite has all the creature comforts I could possibly want, and then some. To my left, there is an entrance hall with two pairs of gumboots should I need my housekeeper to clean my shoes, a bag if I want to pop my jacket or camera into it, a net for catching frogs that might have gotten lost (there was one – they are harmless and super cute), and two yoga mats. Walking into the suite space, to my right, there is a bar area with a Nespresso machine and a milk frother, a variety of teas, beverages, and snacks. On the left hand side is the lounge and bedroom, which is an incredibly light and airy space comprising of a couch where you can diarize what you’ve seen and heard on safari in the leatherbound Sights and Sounds book or sit back and relax while paging through Timeless – Images from the Luangwa Valley by Patrick Bentley. Behind the couch is a map of South Luangwa National Park, and there is a writing desk with a chair, should you wish to pen something.
The pièce de resistance is undoubtedly the bedroom, with super soft white bedding and a dreamy mosquito net which envelops the super King-sized bed at night. Positioned in the middle of the pillows, a specially made cushion with a leopard embroidered on it in black takes pride of place.
Beyond the bar is the most exquisite bathroom, with a shower, freestanding bath, double vanities, and a flush loo. The details in the bathroom are eye-catching – the black and white drawing behind the bath, a set of twelve watercolor paintings of birds endemic to South Luangwa framed on the wall where the loo is, and the lights above the bath.
This is not all! Unlocking the door to the outside deck, there is an alfresco shower, two loungers, an umbrella, a pool, a table with chairs, and another seating area. Slide the stacking doors open to enjoy the very best of Africa at Chichele Presidential, while being nurtured in nature.
Succeeding a spread of delectable treats at High Tea, I’m delighted to learn that Lams will be my guide as he also drove me on safari when I stayed at Puku Ridge in 2023. He is joined by spotter Ackson on our afternoon safari, who assists in identifying tracks and finding wildlife. We had hardly left the lodge when Lams got notified that there was a leopard in a tree. As we approach the sighting, she vacates her vantage point and scurries into the bushes. All is not lost as we find three different leopards on our drive!
Back at Chichele Presidential, it’s time for dinner, with shared starters and my main course of choice being slow-roasted pulled lamb shank served with soft polenta, zucchini, baby carrots, lemon parsley gremolata, and microgreens. Dessert is the yummy vanilla crème caramel with crispy sesame phyllo. Retiring for the night, I indulge in a cleansing shower with the fragrant Terres d’Afrique products before climbing into my very comfortable bed.
Following a great night’s sleep, pre-game drive breakfast is served in the dining area, with freshly baked pastries, granola, yoghurt, and fresh seasonal fruit. Heading out on safari, we encounter zebra drinking water from a source not too far from the lodge, waterbuck grazing, buffalo feeding, and we find four leopards again. It’s clear why South Luangwa National Park is referred to as The Valley of the Leopard. A lovely coffee stop has been set up in the bush, with refreshments and snacks. Driving back to the lodge, Lams has to stop for a family of elephants crossing the road as they are feeding on marula fruit, and the little one seems really intrigued by these round pods, which he can pick up with his trunk.
Brunch is served overlooking the plains, and today I’m served a tasty gourmet burger with fries. The day has heated up enough to take a dip in my pool, subsequent to which High Tea is served, followed by the afternoon safari. A big herd of buffalo is out on the plains, and we find a relaxed female leopard after dark.
Safaris in South Luangwa National Park are truly bucket list stuff, and seeing different prides of lions – the Mfuwe pride and the Chichele pride are what draws visitors to the park. The lion dynamics are fascinating, and sitting at a safe and respectful distance from them is a photographer’s dream. With no small cubs in the pride, the sub-adults are playful, sometimes much to the annoyance of the adults.
A species only found in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is the statuesque Thornicroft’s Giraffe. Seeing them out in the open feeding on ebony trees or spine combretum is magical, especially when there are youngsters about. Their coats are different from other giraffes, with a unique pattern of large, irregular-shaped brown or black patches separated by white or yellow bands that make them stand out.
Frequenting the plains are herds of zebra, and not only are they gorgeous, but they are very photogenic. Their black and white stripes are like a human’s fingerprint, so they are all different with variations in patterns. To see one in the golden morning light in prime condition is fantastic, especially when he’s calm and appears to ‘pose’ for the camera.
After spending a few nights at Chichele Presidential, I’m reminded of what it’s like to be truly cared for, and no effort is spared to make you feel like part of the family. The reinvention of this spectacular property is bound to become a favorite escape in Zambia, connecting guests deeply to the extraordinary landscape of the South Luangwa valley, melding history, culture, and nature.
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