Occupying an enviable position at the top of a ridge in South Africa’s Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, Walkers Plains Camp delivers it all – world-class hospitality, plush accommodation, delicious cuisine, and the most extraordinary wildlife sightings.
The Airlink flight from Cape Town International Airport to Hoedspruit Airport is filled with excited safari-goers. A mere 2-and-a-half hours later, the aircraft touches down, and passengers veer off in different directions looking for a signboard with their names on it. For many, it’s the realization of a lifelong dream to set foot on African soil and go on their first safari.
I’m looking forward to immersing myself in the Walkers Plains Camp experience, having had the privilege earlier this year to spend two blissful nights at their incredible boutique beach property, Walkers Beach. A big part of the appeal to stay at Walkers Plains is the fact that it’s owned by Howard and Ingrid Walker, and managed by their identical twin sons, James and Steve Walker. Guests are collected at the airport and within half an hour arrive at the doorstep of Walkers Plains Camp.
James tells me how much he loved spending time in the bush as a youngster, playing in the mud with his brother, and having carefree holidays as a family. Managing the lodge is something he clearly enjoys, meeting and connecting with guests while keeping his finger on the pulse of Walkers Plains Camp. Arriving at the property, the perfectly manicured lawn stretches out and creates an impeccable foreground for the main lodge.
The gardens and flowerbeds are immaculate, adding a sense of homeliness to Walkers Plains Camp. Duty manager Caroline warmly welcomes me, while barman and barista Cosmo offers me a glass of homemade lemonade. The main area is furnished with comfortable couches, which you can sink into and keep a watch on the passing parade of wildlife. A very active watering hole in front of the lodge is a favorite drinking spot for elephants, zebras, wildebeest, and lots of other animals coming by to quench their thirst.
Avid art collectors, the Walkers have an array of stunning wall coverings and objects d’art displayed in and around the lodge. Striking black and white photographs by Graham Springer are framed and take pride of place in the lounge, while artist Keith Joubert’s painting forms a focal point above the fireplace. On the wall in the library, an oil on canvas painting by Angela Banks, entitled A Spot of Tea, becomes a talking point.
The eight suites are a short stroll from the main area. Decorated in shades of white, brown, grey, and green, the space is the ideal respite for putting your feet up, taking a midday snooze, or lounging by your private plunge pool. High Tea is served before each afternoon game drive, consisting of a tasty array of sweet and savory treats, washed down with iced tea, iced coffee, or flavored water.
Guide Tristan and tracker Chris are eager to showcase the wildlife that inhabits this special part of the Greater Kruger National Park. Spanning 22,000 acres, there are countless choices of which route we can take. Even when travelling quite a distance to get there, every sighting is worth it. A highlight is parking alongside the Sark Breakaways, a pride of two lionesses and seven cubs. They are busy feeding on the remains of a wildebeest kill, and the cubs haven’t quite mastered the art of not playing with their food.
Head Chef Nico and his team pull out all the stops for dinner, which is primarily served on the outside deck next to the main pool. The darkening sky reveals the stars, forming a breathtaking backdrop to every meal. On the menu is a choice of starters, and I opt for the cherry tomato, feta cheese, and basil pesto tartlet drizzled with balsamic reduction. The pan-seared venison fillet served with crushed baby potatoes, carrot purée, sautéed spinach, fried mushrooms, and a cowboy sauce is delicious. For dessert, the pear tart tatin served with vanilla ice cream and rosemary-infused caramel is the perfect conclusion to dinner.
Pre-game drive coffee and biscuits are an excellent way to start the morning, and Tristan and Chris always have something new on the horizon. What Tristan doesn’t disclose yet is that he found the Giraffe pride of lions on the tar road when he was coming in to work. They are still there, causing quite the traffic jam as passersby do a double take and cannot believe their luck to see a pride of lions near the road. Amongst them is a leucistic cub, and he is certainly very distinctive with his white coat and pale eyes. Playful as only cubs can be, it’s an entertaining case of stalk, pounce, and pretend fight, skills which will stand them in good stead one day when they become hunters.
Brunch consists of fresh fruit, cereals, pastries, hot breakfast, and hot beverages made by Charles or Xoli. Taking in the magnificent surroundings while seated on the main veranda, a herd of zebras is coming to the watering hole for a drink. High Tea is a delectable array of wraps, mini quiches, and the melt-in-your-mouth Oreo cheesecake. On an afternoon safari, we find the Giraffe pride again, and the females are trying to have a siesta, but the cubs have other plans – it’s playtime! Stopping for drinks, it is a photo-worthy sight to see the sun dipping behind the horizon, signaling the end of another glorious day at Walkers Plains Camp.
A good night’s sleep is a great precursor to a safari, and Tristan is consistently hopeful to find the most elusive of them all – a leopard. Chris is talented at spotting fresh tracks, but the big cat doesn’t always want to be seen, so we have the prospect of trying again on the next safari. While out on a drive, there are fresh footprints in the sand, but they snake off into a grassy area. All of a sudden, pandemonium erupts as impalas start alarm calling. Tristan follows the sound, and there she is in all her magnificence – the Nkhaya Dam female leopard.
Boma night at Walkers Plains Camp is undoubtedly a special occasion, which is a celebration of South African foods and includes Nico’s mouthwatering malva pudding with ice cream. Dining around a warm fire encourages a feeling of what locals really love – barbequed meats and sides that are an optimal accompaniment. A morning safari yields the heartwarming sighting of three white rhinos having a slumber in the sand. The one rolls onto his side with a big sigh, much to everyone’s amusement.
A big part of a stay at Walkers Plains Camp is supporting the Timbavati Foundation, which connects communities to conservation while promoting quality education and growing environmental care. The former family home of the Walkers, the lodge was expanded to an intimate property, and with only eight suites, the feeling of coming home is very real. As Ingrid and Howard Walker tell me, guests love the unpretentious nature of the camp, which goes hand in hand with the kindness of the staff and the personalized connection to the family. Welcome home to Walkers Plains Camp. It will be hard to leave.
