Experiencing the raw power of nature at three very different Desert & Delta Safaris properties, it is clear why these Botswana lodges form the ideal safari circuit.
Starting my journey on a Wednesday morning, I am flying to Kasane, which serves as the gateway to Chobe National Park. Just before we start our descent, I look out from my window seat towards the Chobe River. The mass of water bears testament to the recent floods, which caused a lot of wildlife to disperse, and islands in the middle of the river to be inaccessible. On the shoreline, the abundance of greenery also indicates that the influx of rain has turned the landscape and trees into a lush oasis for the browsers and grazers. A forty-minute road transfer takes me to the entrance of Chobe Game Lodge, where history meets sustainability.
As the first and only permanent safari lodge built in Chobe National Park, the property is perfectly positioned to offer the ultimate experience of the river and the national park. In a mix which is best described as old-world colonial charm, guests have been flocking to this well-loved lodge for over five decades. It’s easy to see why it’s been so popular with locals and tourists alike – the staff is warm and sincere, the accommodation is comfortable, and the food has a true African essence to it. When Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton said their “I do’s” for the second time in 1975, they chose Chobe Game Lodge, even though their nuptials lasted less than a year. Throngs of other celebrity guests have been wowed by the setting, the service, and the wildlife.
With forty-four rooms, the lodge is able to host large families or groups traveling together. In this special, most north-easterly corner of the 4,517 sq. mile Chobe National Park, the Chobe River provides the ebb and flow to your safari. Heading out on a boat cruise with guide and boat captain Lebo, the wildlife in and along the river provides great photo opportunities. Elephants are the stars of the show, and encountering two large bulls swimming in the afternoon is magical. What makes the sighting even more entertaining is when they start dunking one another under the water!
Twice daily game drives take place in Chobe National Park, and a variety of wildlife can be spotted from the safety of the 4×4 safari vehicle. The impalas are thriving because of the food they have in excess, and so are the giraffe, elephants, kudus, and pukus. We spend a good while with lion cubs playing in the tall grass, and fellow guests Mindy, Bianca, and Mary Beth are vying for them to run towards us so that we can see them up close.
Departing Chobe Game Lodge for the next property – the brand-new Sediba Sa Rona, excitement is evident as we board Safari Air’s Cessna Grand Caravan. Captain Letso flies us to Khwai Private Airstrip, where our next mode of transport awaits – a Robinson R44 with Helicopter Horizons Commercial Pilot Brett doing the 10-minute hop between the airstrip and the lodge. Unusually high water levels have caused the airstrip where we were supposed to land to be out of service, and even the arrival area at the lodge had to change.
Situated in the Khwai Concession in north-western Botswana, Sediba Sa Rona is fronted by the Khwai River, where a large variety of bird species frequent the aquatic nirvana that they find themselves in. Each of the fifteen safari suites has unimpeded vistas over the river, and it’s not uncommon to spot wildlife from the comfort of your private veranda. Sliding the doors open, a small bird is floating amongst the papyrus and water lilies. Is it an African Jacana? On closer inspection, it has a bright yellow bill, green ear patches, and metallic green on its back. It is a male African pygmy goose, and he is gliding towards me.
The safari suites are large structures, with a juxtaposition of wood, canvas, and thatch. Swinging the heavy front door open, I step into the cool room, where dark wooden flooring paves the way to a dreamy bedroom and a bed covered in silky, soft white bedding. The mosquito net, which encircles the bed, is placed a few feet away from each side, adding an additional sense of space. Accents of green, beige, grey, and cream pay homage to the surrounding bush. Double vanities in the bathroom are framed by identical mirrors, and there is closet space on either side of the wall. Enjoy a rain shower using the fragrant Charlotte Rhys products before turning in for the night.
Safaris form an integral part of a stay at Sediba Sa Rona, and guide NT is keen to show us the wildlife that inhabits the region. Since the lodge is in a private concession, we are allowed to off-road for high-profile sightings, which has everyone clamoring for their cameras and phones. In the branch of a rain tree, a leopard is lying fast asleep in the afternoon sun. Her coat is glistening in the golden light, but she has her face turned away from us. She has a young male cub, who suddenly appears after scaling the base, and drapes himself over a branch not too far from his mother.
After breakfast the next day, NT wants to see if he can find the leopard and her cub again. They had finished their impala carcass and, with no food to come back for, had vacated the tree. We see loads of other wildlife – zebras, impalas, kudus, elephants, and the most adorable hyena cub. An adult is lying on the side of the road, which makes us investigate whether there is activity at the den. A few of the older cubs are huddled together, and two younger ones appear, clearly very curious.
A team of chefs ensures that the food offerings are delicious, and guests can look forward to tasty pre-game drive breakfast, brunch, high tea, and dinner. Spending time by the pool is definitely recommended – reading a book while reclining in a lounger or taking a dip in the crystal clear water will cool you off on a hot summer’s day. For guests who want to switch up their activities, they can opt for a mokoro (dug-out canoe) excursion to get a different perspective while a poler does all the steering. Those who prefer game drives will love spotting wildlife that stop and look straight at you, like the herds of zebras on our morning safari.
Setting out for the third and last property on the excellently designed itinerary, we are flying to the Savute airstrip. Specialist guide Isaac is standing at the bottom of the steps to the fixed-wing aircraft to welcome us. Driving to Savute Safari Lodge in the south-western sector of Chobe National Park, the topography encompasses open savannah, mopane forests, and towering trees. Crossing over the bridge where the Savute channel should be flowing, the hope for it to fill this year with the floods from the Angola highlands seems sincere. The lodge is a mere four minutes from the Savute gate, and we make it in time for brunch.
Only eleven chalets are elevated above the landscape with views of the watering holes and the wildlife that frequent them. A refurbishment in 2024 converted the chalets into luxurious spaces, whilst maintaining the essence of safari living. Tasked with the project was lead designer Sigourney Kinnear, and head of technical design on the interior project, Brent Sykes. Both are from the South African international award-winning design and architectural practice Dakota Design.
Creating a timeless and memorable guest experience was the blueprint for Savute Safari Lodge. With the clever implementation of natural materials such as weathered woods, rawhide, and woven textiles, they reflect the rugged beauty of the surroundings. Subtle animal prints in the form of scatter cushion covers and earthy tones harmonize with the natural environment outside your chalet. I’m staying in chalet number 9, which has an imposing sausage tree on the right-hand side of my private verandah. Artwork by Sarah Kelly is framed and placed on both sides of the room.
After high tea, we are wondering whether a game drive is likely to happen since the most incredible electric storm has set in. Thunder, lightning, and rain might be a deterrent, but it has tapered off into a slight drizzle. The wildlife also seems affected by the change in weather – a wildebeest foal is hopping along across the plains, much to our amusement. We spend time with a Kori bustard, which has its tail feathers spread out. The magnificence of seeing a double rainbow on safari is an extraordinary sight.
Dinner is served on the deck overlooking the watering holes, and the food is delectable. Starters are followed by the main course, with dessert as a sweet conclusion to
your meal. The camp is not fenced, so an escort accompanies guests to their rooms after the sun has set or before sunrise. My chalet has an indoor and outdoor shower, and I choose the indoor one, washing the day away with the cleansing Charlotte Rhys products.
A great night’s sleep is a wonderful way to start a new day. Isaac wants to see if he can find some big cats, which is easier said than done. The terrain has long grass, which is prime camouflage for lions or leopards. We spot a leopard pausing on the branch of a camelthorn tree. He is magnificent, and his rosetted coat is really striking. We happen upon the Marsh pride of lions, and a few of the lionesses and cubs are walking straight towards us.
Ending the trinity of Desert & Delta Safaris on a high note, we bear witness to an African Harrier Hawk and a juvenile Martial Eagle perched on the same tree, with the hawk on the top branch. All of a sudden, both birds take flight at the same time, and it looks as though the hawk is trying to catch the eagle.
In spite of the properties differing in what they offer, it is the complete package that makes guests go back time after time. During the four decades since their inception, Desert & Delta Safaris has been where you will find pristine wilderness, natural heritage, eco-conscious tourism, and sustainability for generations to come.
