Only 26 miles from the center of London is Sopwell House, a 4-star Georgian country house hotel. It’s a perfect excursion from the ‘Big Smoke’ as London is nicknamed. It was the former residence of the family of Lord Mountbatten, a close relative of the royal family and a mentor to King Charles. It’s set near St. Albans, a market city with its shopping center and boutiques, and of course a historic cathedral. It’s easily accessible from Luton Airport and 20 minutes by train from London St. Pancras. It’s popular with actors and the film world as both Elstree and Leavesden studios are close by.
This white-washed manor house has 12 acres of well-kept gardens in which to wander. They comprise a former walled garden as well as the hotel’s immaculately mown front lawn. The spacious lobby is open and planned beneath its glass roof. There are velvet sofas encircling a proper open large fire and heralding a vibe of utter relaxation to come. It leads to a succession of drawing rooms that are traditionally furnished. There are pictures of people with animal heads, shelves lined with books, and curios in cabinets that include a collection of teapots.
There’s both an old part and a new one that houses the 128 rooms and suites (with a starting price of around $300). They all share the same contemporary and homely interiors. Some have balconies overlooking the hotel grounds. I stayed in a Mews Suite. It was originally a stable block but now it felt cottage-like. A miniature home-from-home. A privileged area with its own gate, courtyard with wicker seats, and immaculate topiary within the communal garden. From its illuminated outdoor jacuzzi, I enjoyed a wonderful heavenly nightcap looking up at the star-studded sky and the full moon. I then retired to my suite with its leather furnishings and flock armchairs. I sunk into the duck feather duvet on my king-sized bed. I was right beside my fire and my bathroom which indulgently offered Elemis toiletries.
By day the restaurant hosts a quintessentially British ‘afternoon tea’; by night it’s lit up and transformed into Omboo, an Asian dining experience. The tropically themed series of rooms are colorful, playful, and funky. Nature is abundant with plants and wallpaper depicting butterflies, dragonflies, and exotic birds. It transported me away from my normal life. The cuisine is inspired by the spice routes of Asia and the Far East. It comes with a special dining experience: namely, a “when ready” policy, as shared platters were delivered to my table fresh out of the kitchen once cooked. There’s also the option of the Brasserie. Here in this light breezy summer house people in thick, white dressing gowns and slippers enjoy an all-day menu as they take in the view of the gardens outside.
The hotel is conveniently close to a golf course but guests are especially lured to the adults-only Cottonmill Spa. Where else can you wander around in white towels all day? This is a magnificent modern fully-equipped palace of pampering. There are privileged areas with special niches in which to relax. There’s a Whisper Room for peace and quiet and a Rose Relaxation Room with cocoon-like loungers. These are inspired by Japanese sleep pods as they softly vibrate and change color. There’s a Garden Room, with cabanas and a fire pit. There are four rooms in the Thermal Suite. These comprise an organic sauna scented with essential oils, a ‘sensory shower’, a therapeutic sea salt steam room, and a botanical steam room. From many angles, I could access the vast indoor pool, the vitality and hydrotherapy pools, and other restorative areas.
I experienced the spa’s signature ‘Sound and Sand’ treatment. It was literally sensational. Tucked into the amber and quartz crystal bed, these sand-like granules molded into my body. It felt snug and reassuring like a cocoon. Of the two vibrating singing bowls the clearing sound of one rippled along my back to send me off into a lovely healing place. Then I was tilted in different positions for my massage proper. What a deeply pleasurable adventure. It all felt so much more than a few miles and a day away from London.
