Historically known as Ceylon, the island nation of Sri Lanka is situated just off the southeastern coast of India. Home to a variety of pristine tropical beaches, lush tea plantations, and exotic wildlife, the inimitable Sri Lankan boutique hotel brand Uga offers the ultimate benchmark for these memorable experiences.
She’s the doyenne of luxury travel PRs, so when an invitation by the lovely Charlotte Rous from Charlotte Rous Communications lands in my Inbox, it’s a given that I will accept without even knowing the destination.
The itinerary is on many travelers’ bucket lists – we will be visiting Sri Lanka and staying at four different Uga properties. Departing Cape Town International Airport on a Thursday afternoon on Emirates, I’m excited to experience what this country in South Asia has to offer. Landing at Dubai International Airport in the early hours of the morning, the next flight to Colombo Bandaranaike International is also with Emirates. In spite of the time, Dubai Airport is a hive of activity with visitors and residents jostling while wheeling their suitcases, and those who did a bit of retail therapy pushing their shopping carts. Arriving at 8:35 on Friday morning, I wait in line at the immigration counter to have my passport stamped. On the other side of the airport is the driver who is transporting us to the stunning Uga Halloowella, which opened in Hatton, amongst Sri Lanka’s famed tea tree trails, in January this year.
Uga Halloowella
Taking the scenic route is always a good idea, especially when faced with mountainous landscapes and abundant tea plantations. Whirring about the roads are numerous Tuk Tuks, a favorite way of getting people from point A to point B in a brisk manner. These three-wheeled open-air vehicles are really colorful and seem like a fun way to explore Sri Lanka.
Winding our way up to the top of the hills of Hatton overlooking the striking Castlereagh Reservoir, Uga Halloowella is the first stop on our travel plan.
A former home of a World War I fighter pilot, the property has been meticulously restored into a colonial bungalow by Sri Lankan architect and Geoffrey Bawa protégé Channa Daswatte. The new property features a reception area, six rooms, a dining room, two lounges, and an outside area with a heated Jacuzzi and a rimflow pool. Referred to as a Villa, the bungalow has a warm and inviting space, as is the welcome by villa manager Seshaya and a team of butlers. She tells us about the history of Uga Halloowella and asks whether we would be willing to partake in a Hindu ritual with each of us lighting a candle, a representation of all six rooms at the new property. She then continues to do another custom, which is known as Pooja, a third eye drawn with sandalwood and red kum kum powder between the eyebrows. We are presented with a variety of teas and some snacks and are shown to our individual suites.
I’m staying in one of the two Pekoe suites, named after the globally renowned Pekoe Trail that winds its way around the property. My suite is comfortably furnished in accents of pink, orange, cream, green, and beige. The dark and light wooden furniture and white bedding form a wonderful contrast. The bathroom contains double vanities, a shower, a claw-foot tub, and a flush loo. Enjoying a cleansing shower with the Uga products before climbing into your king-sized bed is the ideal ending to a perfect day.
Meals at Uga Halloowella are exceptional in presentation and taste. Head Chef Danushka ensures that there is a food choice that suits your liking. For lunch, I opt for the prawn and avocado ceviche for starters, herb butter roasted chicken for the main course, and Sri Lankan chocolate biscuit pudding trifle for dessert. The day is spent at leisure in and around the gorgeous property, and with a variety of local activities to choose from, which include hiking and kayaking, ensuring guests will never be bored at Uga Halloowella. Dinner is served at the stylish long table in the dining room, and the courses start with a smoked salmon amuse bouche, followed by a starter of tender citrus butter scallops. Before continuing our meal, we are offered a passion fruit sorbet palate cleanser. The main course is a delicious ceylon tea and herb crusted lamb loin, and dessert is a melt-in-your-mouth homemade ice cream selection.
With its close vicinity to prime tea sites, including factory tours of the working Bogawantalawa Tea Estate, Uga Halloowella affords travelers the chance to understand the local area and history firsthand. As part of the region and country’s heritage, naturalist Rimas is at hand to take us on the fascinating journey from history to biology, culminating in the intricacies of drying the leaves, the fermentation process, to sorting, packaging, and tasting the sought-after beverage. Who knew how much work goes into acquiring the perfect leaf of tea – the light green ones produce the well-loved black tea, while the darker leaves make a brown and bitter liquid suitable for composting. The leaves are picked by ladies who know which ones yield the best results, and some have worked in the fields for most of their lives and are over sixty years of age.
Uga Chena Huts
Leaving for Uga Chena Huts via Cinnamon Air seaplane, the C-208 Caravan Amphibian is a specially adapted Cessna Grand Caravan with a propeller turbine, the ideal aircraft for any type of terrain. Taking off on water and soaring at an altitude of 1400 ft, we admire the splendor of the landscape unfolding in front of us. Much to our surprise, we touch down on a runway, which goes to show how versatile this aircraft with its floats and vortex generators is, optimizing aerodynamic performance with an amazing take-off and landing experience.
A 45-minute road transfer takes us to Uga Chena Huts in Yala National Park, a bush and beach escape second to none. Located within a tropical jungle-esque setting surrounded by lush vegetation, I can hear the sound of waves from the Indian Ocean crashing onto the shoreline while luxuriating in my exquisite cabin.
With their eco-friendly ethos, Uga Chena Huts were constructed using recycled materials, with furniture and fixtures crafted from sustainable resources. Walking up to my cabin, the concrete champa-like dome exterior structure blends in seamlessly with the surrounding landscape, a testament to Uga’s responsible environmental tourism to not interfere with the natural elements.
Unlocking the door, I step over the threshold and am immediately impressed by what will be my home for the next two nights. Sized at 1600 sq ft, the inviting space is light and airy, with the interspersion of green, cream, brown, beige, and white, creating a dreamy atmosphere. Forming part of the interior is a dining area with a glass top table and chairs, an inclusive mini-bar and coffee station, a lounge area with a couch, television and sound system, a bedroom area with a beautiful wooden headboard, separating the bed from the double vanities, a writing desk and chair, a wardrobe, a freestanding bath, a shower and a flush loo. On my private veranda is a 15 ft pool with air jets, pool loungers, an outside shower, and a seating area. The cabins are absolutely spectacular, and the climate control goes a long way in keeping the accommodation cool.
Lunch is served in Basses Bar + Kitchen with views of the ocean and a menu that has meals suitable for all diners. Deciding to skip starters and dessert as we are going on safari soon, I opt for the beef kebab with oriental flavored cumin rice, salad tabouli, and cured sauce. Everyone is excited for the prospect of seeing the special wildlife that inhabits Yala National Park, the second largest national park in Sri Lanka. We meet up with our ranger, Nuwan, who will be guiding us during the drive, which lasts around three hours. Yala National Park is divided into blocks, with Block 1 being the most popular. We haven’t even reached the park when we see an elephant almost immersed in water. He is lying on his side and lifts his trunk out of the water every so often. Established in 1938, Yala National Park is 463 square miles in size, with Block 1 comprising 55 square miles.
The variety of birdlife is incredible and we spot painted stork, lots of green bee-eaters, lesser whistling duck, a white throated kingfisher, an open-billed stork, loads of peacocks and a red wattled lapwing. A sighting that has everyone ooh-ing and aah-ing is the black naped hare, munching on some grass next to the road. Dinner is a gastronomic feast, and Head Chef Nuwan comes over to introduce himself as he is very hands-on when it comes to the cuisine at Uga Chena Huts. Following a great night’s sleep, I stroll along the paved path to the spa for my treatment. Asrani from Bali offers me water with fresh lime before she asks which treatment I would prefer. I chose the 60-minute Swedish massage with Sarshapadi oil, and the relaxing and healing technique sends me to dreamland. Having missed breakfast, I order a fruit platter and passion fruit juice because lunch is just around the corner. The crunchy tuna patti for starter, the butter fried calamari for main course, and soft pick chocolate mousse are absolutely delicious.
Heading out on safari again, we find a ‘teenage’ Asian Elephant peacefully feeding on the greenery and see a number of crocodiles out of the water, more green bee-eaters, spotted deer, and the same elephant on the way out of the park, but on the opposite side of the road. The sunset is magnificent with hues of pink and orange creating a painting against the horizon. We are having pre-dinner drinks in the beach bar with dinner set up on the sand and lanterns illuminating our path. The food is sensational, with a starter of prawns, the main course being a bush grill (the seafood one is fantastic), and the dessert is melt-in-your-mouth cold cheesecake.
An early morning calls for a reasonable bedtime, and indulging in a cleansing shower before retiring to my King-sized bed makes for a good night’s rest. We are doing a beach walk this morning with Nuwan leading the way to teach us about the marine life at Uga Chena Huts. He stops by a pile of elephant dung, explaining that the flowers growing out of the excrement indicate that even elephants give back to nature. There is a hole in the sand, which was a turtle nesting site, dug out by wild boars. The coastline is ruggedly beautiful, and the white foamy waves make for a dramatic foreground to the moody grey skies. After the walk, a welcome breakfast is enjoyed by all before we set off for the brand new Uga Prāva in Tangalle.
Uga Prāva
A two-and-a-half-hour road trip from Uga Chena Huts takes us to the front door of the sparkly new Uga Prāva. The seventh property in the exclusive Uga portfolio, it resembles an ultra-stylish beach house with only seven luxurious suites. Its minimalistic design is phenomenal while not detracting from the breathtaking shores of Tangalle on the south Sri Lankan coast. We are welcomed by general manager Haritha, a former trained safari guide who has taken on a new role in the hospitality industry by overseeing all aspects at Uga Prāva. Born in Sri Lanka’s city of Kandy, his father’s influence led him to become intrigued by the natural world, with his love for wildlife taking him to Yala National Park, South Africa, and Botswana. Haritha returned to Uga Chena Huts and started the meticulous training of guides after having completed his FGASA level 1 in South Africa, setting a high standard for the safari industry in Sri Lanka.
He asks us each to light a candle with six placed around a metallic rooster, signifying punctuality and the beginning of light. The boutique beach villa has uninterrupted views over the Indian Ocean from each suite, and I can hear the waves cascading over the rocks from my domicile. I am staying in Coral Suite number 3, which can easily accommodate a family of four. The spacious layout comprises a bedroom with two single beds, a King-sized four-poster bed, two separate bathrooms, a lounge area with television and sound system, a tea and coffee station, and an outside area with views over the ocean. Teak furniture has been used throughout the property, and the white titanium floors are cool underfoot, perfect for the tropical climate at Uga Prāva.
Sitting down in the dining area for lunch, the menu has been created by executive chef Rasika, and the proximity to the ocean ensures that the seafood at Uga Prāva is as fresh as it could possibly be. I ordered the Sri Lankan chicken tenders salad for starters, the surf + turf beach burger for the main course, and homemade ice cream for dessert. Adventuring with Kayaking Kingdom is on the cards for the afternoon, and gliding silently through the mangrove forests on a kayak while taking in the brilliant sunset is a very serene experience. After a cleansing shower, we have pre-dinner drinks before enjoying a three-course feast in the dining room. For starters, I opt for the yellowfin tuna tirado with tropical fruit, followed by a cut of beef tenderloin with vegetables. Deciding to skip dessert is a good idea, as the food is deliciously filling.
Sleep beckons, and an electric storm causes a dramatic spectacle with lightning, thunder, and a nice amount of tropical rain. The rest of the group ventures out on a bike ride through a historic fishing village in the morning, while I explore the property that was originally eight years in the making before being transformed into a boutique hotel. Palm trees frame the 134 ft infinity pool, which looks really inviting, or should I take the steps down to the private beach? The pool is the winner, and looking out over the seemingly endless horizon, I hear the resident peacock screeching and see him perched on the roof. He makes his way down to the lawn with his train (tail feathers) in tow, flying and landing with great ease.
Breakfast is served on the dining deck, and freshly squeezed juices, coffee, pastries, and food offerings delight fellow diners Charlotte, Caz, Ellie, Christy, and Sara. Taking a dip in the pool, the water is refreshing, and you can swim laps if you are so inclined. Lunch is an array of starters and main courses, and the fisherman’s basket contains calamari, prawns, and fish. This afternoon, we are visiting the old town of Galle, which houses Galle Fort, an impressive fortress that is the largest remaining structure in Asia. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was built by the Portuguese in 1588 and saw an extravagant rebuild by the Dutch during the 17th century. The narrow streets are busy, lined with colonial-style hotels, tiny shops, and jewelers that will gladly design and manufacture something special for you. Tuk Tuks make haste to take visitors to the next tourist stop, be it a restaurant, store, or, in our case, our driver!
A torrential downpour has everyone scurrying for cover, and not knowing how long the rain will last, we make use of this mode of transport to get us to the transfer vehicle. Soaked, we shelve the idea of shopping up a storm and return to Uga Prāva for our last night at this outstanding property. Dinner is a gastronomical indulgence of every single seafood variety you can think of – there is tuna, mussels, calamari, lobster, and salmon paired with dips, rice, and salads. We retire for the night as the pre-dawn wake-up calls for sleep, and I will be concluding my journey at Uga Riva in Negombo.
Uga Riva
Arriving at Uga Riva, the heritage-style manor hotel in Negombo’s Kochichikade is the ideal start or end to your Sri Lankan stay. A mere 30-minute drive from Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport, I feel like I’ve set foot in an important part of the region’s history. With its pillared verandas, traditional courtyard, and graceful arches, it’s hard to think that the treasured home was constructed 180 years ago. Blending colonial style with sophisticated touches, the melding of yesteryear, coupled with modern nuances, creates an inviting atmosphere. I feel privileged to spend ten hours at this beautiful property, and head butler Darren hands me the keys to room 5, a superior room sized at a spacious 464 sq ft. The four-poster bed is draped in a dreamy mosquito net with crisp white linen offsetting the dark wooden furniture perfectly.
Out on the patio, my table has been set for breakfast, which I enjoy while admiring the verdant gardens that are lined with trees that carry fragrant white Araliya flowers. The cultural significance of the bloom that is known as the Empress Flower has been a symbol of Sri Lankan culture for centuries. Uga Riva is situated within a private 5-acre coconut palm estate and became part of the authentic Uga portfolio in November 2023. The property’s grounds are immaculately maintained, with plentiful birds making an appearance and squirrels flitting up trees.
Relaxing by the pool seems to be a favorite pastime for guests at Uga Riva, with a butler serving drinks and snacks while they soak up the sunshine. I opt for a late lunch since I decided to have a quick nap before I head back to South Africa tonight. The menu has a great variety of food, and I chose the steak sandwich, which is tender beef fillet on bread served with fries. Looking around, the sky has become overcast, but it doesn’t deter guests from swimming with clouds overhead. My eye catches different pieces of artwork on the wall next to me, and the simplicity of a hand-drawn face is absolutely marvelous. The driver collects me at 18:00, well in time for my flight to Dubai International Airport at 22:05 on Emirates. This is followed by another Emirates flight from Dubai to Cape Town International Airport at 03:05 the next day, with an arrival time of 11:35 in the Mother City. Stepping out of the Boeing 777-300ER, it’s great to be back home with my family after such an incredible trip to the Pearl of the Indian Ocean.
To book this exceptional itinerary in Sri Lanka with Uga, inquire with Red Dot: (+94) 117 895 810 www.reddottours.com
