Sonoma County, California, is as chill as it gets regarding local attitudes, but chasing the grapes is serious business to the over 425 wineries within the region. Many ingredients go into a perfect weekend exploring the area in a laid-back yet refined way—charming accommodations, interesting restaurants, relaxing spas, and exceptional wine tasting venues.
Where to Stay
Every successful holiday begins with choosing the right hotel. Sonoma has several great options, but nothing beats the Healdsburg Inn on The Plaza for local charm, where the hospitality is second to none. Guests receive a key to the front door for after-hours entry, and the warm and friendly front desk staff ensure your stay is delightful. Cosy, well-appointed rooms with fireplaces and some with private balconies are spacious and light and bright. The location can not be beat; it is right on the town square, within walking distance to excellent shopping and dining.
Where to Wine & Dine
Known for his excellence in creating distinctive culinary experiences, Dustin Valette is a legendary Chef-Vintner. He owns a successful wine business and is the Chef-Owner of Healdsburg’s buzzing restaurant Valette, just a few blocks from the Healdsburg Inn. I met up with Tiaan Lorena, the South African who is now a local winemaker for the Hartford Family Winery at Valette. We opened several of the estate’s bottles to pair with our meal. Their Fog Dance Vineyard Chardonnay made me fall in love with that grape again. Was it the citrusy tingles or the ode to jasmine tea that sat well on my palate that turned me back towards Chardonnay, or was it the unfiltered native strains that keep it real and thus more pleasing for my palate? Either way, consider me a huge fan. Their old vine Zinfandels are pretty special as well. At Valette, the menu changes depending on the seasonality of the meats, fish, and produce sourced by first-rate producers. Each dish was divine, unpretentious yet elegant.
Cocktails are an increasingly popular choice in the heart of wine country. While visiting the county, the bar and restaurant at the Madrona Hotel is the place to wind down with hand-crafted libations inspired by world travels, highlighting natural ingredients. Still, if you prefer to stick to wine, their list includes an eclectic choice of labels worldwide. Their dinner menu is uncomplicated, simply delicious food featuring fruits and vegetables from their garden, and in beautiful weather, dine en plein air on their amazing, covered porch.
Montage Healdsburg is a destination resort best enjoyed for a long weekend at a minimum. For guests arriving before sunset, take advantage of the vineyard-covered rolling hills with killer sunsets. Sit by the terrace fire pits on a cool evening at the modern and sophisticated Scout Field Bar and enjoy a glass of their divine Montage private label Surveyor Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Sauvignon. For a real treat, follow it up with dinner at their signature restaurant, Hazel Hill, featuring French-inspired cuisine with a California flair. Restaurant week is particularly popular with its two and three-course menus. Skip the guilt and partake in their homemade rosemary-infused sourdough bread. I skipped the appetizer and went straight for the savory braised lamb shank, which fell right off the bone with marbled potatoes, cippolini link onions, and carrots, and finished well with a delectable chocolate and orange blossom crèmeux dessert, which was a light chestnut mousse with edible flowers and dense chocolate bark on top.
The Sommelier was exceptional in helping me pair each course with champagne and wines to complement the gastronomy. Since I was dining alone, I opted to sit beside the expo kitchen, mesmerized by the fast-paced yet precise plating of perfectly executed dishes. It was truly dinner and a show not to be missed.
The Vérité (Truth) about wine is that it is only as good as the vintners who care for the grapes. Vérité Estate produces wines born of a traditional French mentality of caring for the vines as intimately as possible. Winemaker Pierre Seillan and his assistant winemaker daughter Hélène ensure top-quality wines by paying close attention to the soil. Together they manage what they call “micro-crus,” a term Pierre coined to describe how each vine in a cru section is exposed to microclimates and must be cared for individually and how the soil, which is part of the terroir, must be respected. The same grape, grown in the same conditions in different soils, tastes and produces wines entirely differently.
Before enjoying the spectacular wine tasting experience, I took a private tour with Pierre. Over the years, I have enjoyed visiting world-class barrel rooms, but visiting Vérité’s barrel chai was a religious experience. Nicolas, Pierre’s son, designed the entire estate inspired by a cloister concept of the Southern French Abbaye of Moissac.
Since Pierre’s first vintage in 1998, the wines have scored well, but the ultimate satisfaction came in 2005 with Le Désire and La Joie each scoring 100 points with Robert Parker. According to Pierre, the key to achieving high-level winemaking is “We adjust the ‘style’ of the wine. Too much excess ruins the style. We try to balance the blends so that the goût [taste] isn’t overwhelming or doesn’t end with a bite that puts people off.”
I spent many not-so-enjoyable hours in the library in college, evoking negative emotions. Vérité’s splendid “Library Wine and Food Pairing” experience erased all trepidations associated with the word library and replaced them with superlative feelings. The dashing Brit Ed Newman served the excellent lunch prepared by the affable Chef de Cuisine Justin Wangler. We sat at an elegant table in the main event space, where I dined with Pierre and Hélène, speaking freely and easily about all things wine. The casual atmosphere made it feel more like having a special holiday family meal with my favorite relatives—the perfect vibe for Sonoma.
We dined on light and flavorful halibut ceviche, divine rock cod, Dungeness Crab with caviar, savory duck, and a scrumptious Petit Basque with homemade fig bread. The wine pairings complement each course. A fruity but not sweet 2023 Diamant, a meaty 2021 La Joie with a long finish and energetic composition, and my favorite wine of the estate is a 2015 Le Désire. The mostly Cabernet Franc and Merlot combo strikes a delicate balance of hard mineralogy, leather, and tobacco with hints of wild blackberries and roses in the nose. Le Désire is best drunk with close friends and family. The truth is that Vérité produces top-quality wines of distinction and are some of the best wines in Sonoma County, California, and the world.
Founded in 1999, Copain produces world-class Burgundy-inspired Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Northern Rhône-inspired cool-climate Syrah. They make adult wines that have not forgotten what it is like to be young and fun.
Winemaker Ryan Zepaltas and his associate Quinn Donohue are committed to sustainability. They use organic methods like composting and grazing, which keep the soil healthier. But the bottom line, Zepaltas says, “Sustainable vineyards mean fewer bad things in the soil and in the harvest to bottle process.” Top of the list is the use of better options like organic pesticides. They are also one of the few winemakers to list all their ingredients on the back label. Transparency is key for them, and they want to be seen as trendsetters on that front so that the industry will follow suit.
Copain’s 2022 Taylor Peak Vineyard Pinot Noir is a new try for them. The grapes are from what Zepaltas describes as “a weird little sliver of a cool area,” which makes the wine eccentric. With only 12.6% alcohol content, he says, “It’s better showcased in a lighter framework and will keep for five to seven years.” It was a gloriously sunny day for tasting cool whites and light reds, sitting under the shade of mature trees on the charming terrace. After the single flight tasting, we decided to keep the party going and taste a sublime off-the-menu 2021Taylor Peak Cabernet Franc.
Known for their Chardonnays, I asked what Zepaltas is most proud of. He did not hesitate and replied, “Our 2023 Chardonnay is the best we have done and is the vintage star. I finally feel great about my Chardonnays across the board.” That certainly is something for this savvy winemaker to celebrate, and the fans of Copain are sure to be thrilled as well.
Farm-to-Table to Vino
Kendall Jackson Vineyards offers a tour of the farm gardens. Amiable guide, Maclan, showed us around the three new greenhouses that grow produce for the Kendall Jackson estate and two dozen Michelin-star accounts in the state. Maclan explained that Tucker Taylor, the master gardener for the past 10 years, also ensures no waste. Products not allocated to restaurants are donated to Farm to Pantry and other non-profit organizations in the area. When the flowers and vegetables are in full season, the estate hosts public, private, and corporate events outdoors in the gardens.
After our stroll in the gardens, we sat at a five-course food and wine pairing feast prepared by the sensational culinary team at Kendall Jackson. The locally sourced products for the meal included the vegetables grown in the gardens we had toured minutes before. The wines paired were all limited-edition wines unavailable to the public. Highlights included the 2022 Jackson Estate Outland Ridge Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley, served with a poached farm egg, red wine sauce, garden vegetables, brioche, and bacon lardons. Another favorite course was the Liberty Farms duck sausage, prosciutto, garden greens with a salsa verde, and a slightly peppery, wine cherry notes 2022 Jackson Estate Winemaker’s Blend from Alexander Valley. We ended well on a quince frangipane torte, salted caramel, no chino mascarpone, and some homemade Canelés de Bordeaux with a 2022 Late Harvest Orange Muscat for a sweet finish to a wonderful day. The estate offers options for “small bites,” but I recommend opting for the full five-course if you have the time – you can always skip dinner.
Must Experience
Spa treatment—Montage Healdsburg boasts an 11,500-square-foot sanctuary at the resort with eleven peaceful treatment rooms, a fitness center, and a zero-edge pool. Heavenly massages, given by technicians skilled in relaxation, are offered in a tranquil atmosphere.
Shopping—The Healdsburg Town Plaza area has many bespoke shops, offering everything from fine arts to clothing, home décor, and fun gifts. Many stores are locally owned and showcase handcrafted items by county artisans. If you need a break from carrying shopping totes, visit one of the many wine tasting rooms for a rest and a glass of local greatness.
Adventure – There are 60+ regional and state parks for visitors to explore. Hike through redwood forests, bird watch, zip-line, paddle down rivers, cycle, or backpack. Sonoma County has it all!
