An island perfectly suited to a geologist, a poet, or indeed an artist! Lanzarote has such an awe-inspiring setting: dramatic, expansive, picturesque and welcoming. This island of cacti and volcanoes, though highly individual, summoned to me the glories of other lands. The long sweeping landscape, punctuated with the occasional finca, evoked the beautiful expanse of Andalusia. The straight, low, narrow back streets of habitation with those of Colombia. The aridity and jagged landscape of the Sahara with which it is globally parallel. Indeed I felt there must be a dune or oasis any moment round the corner. The unforgiving molten terrain resembled Iceland with its lunar lava landscape seemingly ploughed by some giant American tractor.
Lanzarote is off the coast of northwest Africa. Rough Guide and Insight Guide are the most accessible guidebooks. And in under 4 hours, my flight from the British Isles met the swiftest of processing through the airport. I hired a car as the smoothest of tarmac made my hour’s drive from top to toe so pleasurable. Even the motorways seemed like a Scalextric circuit. And no rubbish, high-rise buildings, or ugly advertising boards. These things increasingly matter.
Oh to fly and flop. Oh to be guaranteed winter sun. What a perfect climate with which few non-long-haul destinations can compete. Its year-round warmth earns its sobriquet ‘the island of eternal spring’. Sub-tropical with the smallest of temperature variations being 17-21 degrees in January yet windy in July-August.
Quaint villages and towns are all uniform in their bright white-washed walls encompassing their signature green doors and window frames best-seen mid-island at Casa-Museo del Campesino. A winning aesthetic that unifies the island. Fresh, simple, and charming. Their smooth, straight walls are perfectly offset from the land’s rugged curvaceous mountains whose folds drop like drapes (though occasionally hills resemble Egyptian pyramids). Their colors contrast with the earthy tones of this apocalyptic Martian environment (now declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO). Known in its original native language as ‘one that is all ochre’ from the island’s predominant color, against the blackened soil the colors are enhanced with miles of silhouetted spice-colored orange and red volcanic hills and then green vegetation in the north. How heartening that despite its arid and scorched landscape such a beautiful place exists.
Providence exists here, especially at La Geria, the wine region whose Malvasia grape grows on the volcanic topsoil thanks to the innovative semi-circular curved walls, each containing a single vine. They provide protection from the drying wind and resemble endless rows of fish scales. Aloe vera is proudly touted for even having its own museum. Fir trees are fit for Christmas with rigid upward branches and the palm trees proudly display their fronds like peacocks: so immaculate are they as to appear artificial. And I saw herons and turtle doves promoting peace.
I stayed first at Dreams Lanzarote Playa Dorada Resort & Spa, part of World of Hyatt. It refers to the ‘Golden Beach’ which sits directly below close to the village of the white sandy ‘Playa Blanca’. Dreams is a brand of Hyatt’s Inclusive Collection located across the Hispanic world where all tastes are met, and where there’s something for everyone. More getaway than hideaway: one half is for families the other for adults. Guests can come half-board or full-board, all-inclusive family, or with ‘Preferred Guest’ status. Refurbished in 2020, the interior has an open-plan foyer respecting nature with its well-lit plants. It’s all very harmonizing as the decorative emphasis positively adopts a current approach that’s both neutral and natural with its woods, wicker, and banana plants. The 447 luxury rooms and suites come with their modern aesthetic and contemporary furniture. My sizeable balcony provided an indoors-outdoors feel and my gorgeous cacti triptych was all the décor needed as the sea view did the rest. On the grounds are palm and banyan trees that envelop 8 bars, 9 pools, and 6 restaurants to sustain variety for those staying longer. The food is excellent, fresh, and abundant. There’s a spa with a hammam and live music at night. There are even archery lessons and paella tasting while for kids there’s a waterslide and separate clubs for youngsters and teens. I loved the view across to the islands of Lobos and Fuerteventura a mere 20 minutes away by ferry. Here I sat often to soak up the gentle lapping of the crystal-clear water and enjoyed my walks both ways along the promenade to witness wonderful sunsets and sunrises and once a double rainbow.
For the perfect round-off to a day at Playa Blanca I recommend going north to El Golfo, a picturesque village with its blue and green doors and window frames. I watched surging waves break their phosphorescent foam beside a crater that formed a lurid green lacuna. All the warm colors of the evening evolved as nature stole the show. The sun danced its final sequin glints upon the ocean before the sky was awash with pink, then orange, then gold. On the southern side, it was well worth the long bumpy dust track drive to Papagayo. This nature reserve is a dream both for walkers as I rambled across the cliffs to view below a glorious span of golden beaches and for the camper van community clearly settled in for the evening as were the stunning yachts moored offshore.
The day it rained was the perfect opportunity to drive around the island which, most unusually, one man has dominated to the point that the airport is named after him: César Manrique. His glorious vision, an aesthetic he called Art-Nature / Nature-Art, was so ahead of his time. He selected and interpreted a number of natural spaces across the island. All his creations would make perfect film sets as I was about to discover. Such theater was all created from his highly intelligent use of nature. Such a wow factor beyond one’s usual life helps define the purpose of traveling.
His Foundation César Manrique is groovy, tasteful, and imaginative. A magical mystery tour that concords with nature’s shapes with roofs giving way to sprouting trees. On the east coast is his Cactus Garde, set in an abandoned volcanic sand quarry. Here are unique botanical gardens, displayed circularly, with a glorious range of colors and organic shapes.
Most popular is his ‘Jameos del Agua’. Out of a black crater and an interior lake he’s created a wonderland. In spite of being cavernous, it wasn’t remotely dark or dank thanks to his enchanting vision. Such an invitation to a mystical adventure: so tempted was I to enjoy the echo of my primal scream. It’s a natural auditorium, a concert hall hosting events, set in a series of lava caves. Further west the Casa César Manrique, the artist’s house and studio, mercifully isn’t too staged. I sensed his day-to-day life and loved his intriguing artifacts demonstrating his well-traveled life. His studio has been left refreshingly authentic and ingenuously deploys a sunken play of light from its windows.
My favorite was the Mirador del Río, a project he oversaw. For this space capsule of a pod was like being on a plane or looking at a map. All so James Bond. Such a breathtaking view from this lookout spot, a stunning 500 meters above sea level, across the whole island of La Graciosa below. Dubbed the “8th Canary Isle”, with its orange and yellow soil, it reminded me of the barely inhabited Porto Santo off Madeira which also proved one destination too far though an ideal spot for a ‘holiday within a holiday’. How important travel is in transporting one not just physically but also imaginatively as I stared for hours picturing life on the island. And to cap it all I took the amazing western corniche back with its mazy rhythm past hills of all colors. Littoral literature if not poetry.
Only 15 minutes from the airport, tucked into a quiet corner of Puerto Calero, is where I stayed next at Secrets Lanzarote Resorts and Spa. Totally renovated five years ago, it’s also part of a chain located across the Hispanic world. More hideaway than a getaway, it’s adults-only and perfect for couples relaxing or “for all-adult romance” as the hotel’s mantra declares. There’s unlimited luxury full-board, half-board, or a preferred Club with extra options.
The massive light and airy foyer, set in a big, bold edifice, hid the magic beyond and beneath. Cascading steps and tiers sloped gently down to the sea unravelling the many bars and restaurants. Down tasteful walkways beside landscapes fringed with palms, cacti, and bougainvillea are the 335 elegant rooms and suites. My spacious Preferred Club Suite Swim Up with sea view had a personal plunge and an ‘indoors-outdoors’ patio. The décor was modern and neutral with a teal bathroom and jacuzzi to reflect the ocean beyond. All felt secret and quiet as I slept to the feint roar of the sea. There are heated outdoor pools, tennis and squash courts, and a sunken Spa-Wellness Center offering thalassotherapy water jets and Tibetan Bowl sound therapy. An abundant feast of options from the six restaurants range from formal to informal. Below the uber-cool bar is Oceana, a fabulous fish restaurant beside the sea, where I had the best sea bass ever.
I took long walks beside the choppy sea along the wild and breezy clifftop expanses. I also savoured the romantic walkway to Puerto Calero marina: home to boat excursions and even a submarine that descends to see the local tropical fish. It has shops, sea-facing restaurants, and plantation houses reminiscent of Bermuda. It’s well-stocked with boats from the smallest dinghy to the mega-yachts complete with uniformed crew. On this stretch of volcanic-sand shoreline, there’s always a boat out to sea to complete the picture. Here I loved sitting to imagine my sneaking across the Atlantic. Such Dreams and Such Secrets.
Adam had support from Turismo Lanzarote www.turismolanzarote.com/en (see Facebook: VisitLanzarote or email info@turismolanzarote.com).
