At this year’s COUTURE show, Melissa Kaye introduces Rocky and Daphne – two new collections that underscore her signature design language of gold and graphic lines. Both are anchored in the interplay between diamonds and gold, but differ in their inspirations and structural forms.
Rocky, perhaps the more tactile of the two, is a continuation of the designer’s fascination with form, weight, and the way elements come together. The inspiration came from something as simple as two hair ties knotted together, shares the New York designer. “The way they intertwined felt intricate and simple at the same time.” A seemingly mundane moment sparked an architectural exploration of knots and loops, ultimately forming the basis of an entirely new link design. From this foundation, Rocky branches out into a full suite of silhouettes across categories, including “one-of-a-kind pieces centered on exceptional colored stones in round, pear, oval, and cushion cuts.”
In Daphne, meanwhile, Melissa explores the balance between negative space, bold gold, and brilliant diamonds. Here, diamonds appear to float, cradled in rich gold frames that highlight their brilliance. “Many of the pieces in this collection are available in multiple sizes and ‘levels of diamond power,” she adds, with some offered in enamel-accented versions.
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Color still plays a role in the new offerings, though Melissa has notably shifted emphasis back to her brand’s core identity of gold and diamonds. “While enamel has been a great success over the years, our foundation has always been gold and diamonds,” she adds. Instead, color now arrives through rarefied accents. Think Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, and sapphires, selectively placed in one-of-a-kind pieces.
Also making their debut at the show are expansions of the Sydney and Riley lines; most notably, the Sydney Wrap Earring, a sweeping curve of graduated diamonds, and a new spiral-stud take on the Riley motif. Each design leads to the next, she reflects. The process is rarely linear. It delves into experimentation, problem-solving, and iterating. “In that way, each piece informs the next, and the collection grows organically,” says Melissa.
