Standing proudly opposite the soaring twin spires of Cologne Cathedral since 1863, the family-owned Excelsior Hotel Ernst is far more than the city’s oldest grand hotel—it is one of Germany’s enduring icons of luxury hospitality. For more than 160 years, this legendary address has welcomed royalty, heads of state, celebrated artists, and discerning travelers, becoming woven into the cultural and social fabric of Cologne itself. Its privileged setting on Cathedral Square places guests within effortless walking distance of world-class museums, luxury boutiques, acclaimed concert halls, and the banks of the Rhine, while Michelin-starred dining and impeccable service continue to define one of Europe’s most distinguished hotel experiences.
We arrived in mid-December when Cologne’s world-renowned Christmas Markets were in full swing. The entire city was alive with festivities and crowded with visitors and locals enjoying the heady yuletide atmosphere and, of course, the Glühwein. The Excelsior Hotel Ernst was certainly no exception. Entering the hotel, past the very welcoming and affable doormen, we arrived in the large, vaulted, marbled lobby decked out with Christmas decorations – The centrepiece being a large fir tree, adorned with red ribbons. An original Van Dyck painting adorned one of the walls, while guests passed by on their way for English Afternoon Tea, which the hotel dutifully serves every day.
Cathedral views
We arrived in our room to the sound of the cathedral bells tolling the hour and to a welcoming gift of fruit and atelier chocolate. The impressive grand superior room directly overlooked the Cathedral Square – 17 rooms at the hotel offer this sublime view. The room was tastefully decorated with a classic colour palette of cream, dark chocolate and dazzling gold that matched the rich fabrics and furnishings and oozed luxury. The large living area featured a bespoke sofa, tables and a writing desk. Through a door, the bright, high-ceilinged bedroom was dominated by a very comfortable king-size bed. The well-equipped marble bathroom featured a spacious rain-shower with luxury fragrant toiletries courtesy of Codage Paris. There was a well-stocked complimentary minibar and Nespresso coffee maker.
Gourmet grandeur
The hotel has two refined restaurants that are popular with locals and visitors alike. The Michelin-starred Taku offers East Asian gourmet dishes and has a four- or six-course tasting menu including inspired dishes of sashimi of Dutch kingfish and char siu of Iberico pluma.
We dined in Hanse Stube, which presents Franco-German haute cuisine run by head chef Lars Wolf and served by formal but friendly staff who know their dishes and the restaurant’s 6,000-bottle wine cellar. The restaurant was fully booked the evening we arrived. Perfectly cooked whole Weihnachtsgans (Christmas goose) was being served on antique trolleys to tables of well-heeled guests. The sommelier kindly guided us through the directory-heavy wine list and advised a tangy Schloss Vaux, Rheingau Riesling. The starters of beef fillet tartare with lamb’s lettuce emulsion and a goose pâté with yellow beetroot, kumquat and brioche were outstanding. Our mains were a sumptuous saddle of wild venison from the Eifel region of the Rhineland with juniper jus, black salsify mushrooms and pearl onion, and a delightful dish of Norwegian halibut with caviar beurre blanc, goose liver and Pak Choi. For dessert we shared a luscious parfum d’hiver of milk chocolate mousse with caramelised vanilla apple. On leaving, we were presented with a delightful tray of truffles. Afterwards we relaxed in the intimate mahogany panelled Charles Bar with its ochre leather stools and sofas and terrific cocktails.
A hearty breakfast awaited us the next morning. An extensive buffet offered German cold cuts and cheeses, locally smoked trout from Engelkirchen, an abundance of fresh fruit and a variety of yoghurts and freshly baked bread and pastries. A wide-ranging breakfast menu serves cooked dishes and pancakes. If you are feeling decadent, you can indulge in Poget No.2 oysters or caviar with blinis and crème fraîche washed down with Veuve Cliquot or a Bloody Mary. Following breakfast, we headed a few floors up to the well-equipped fitness centre and took a sauna and steam bath before heading out to the mirthful Christmas markets outside.
Cosmopolitan Cologne
If you arrive in deepest winter for the Christmas Markets, the hotel is an ideal base to experience them. Weihnachtsmarkt am Dom is the market closest to the hotel. The cherry-roofed wooden stalls, sitting snugly under the cathedral’s gargantuan dark spires, sell all manner of festive gifts as well as delicious Christmas snacks. A short walk away through the Altstadt, or Old Town, leads you to Heinzel’s Wintermarchen, which has a large ice rink and an Alpine-style beer hall.
However, Cologne is an all-year destination, and there is much to explore and experience here. Cologne’s history dates back to Roman times. It was founded by Emperor Claudius in AD 50, and the Roman-Germanic Museum, with its horde of antiquities, holds many treasures. Fast forward almost a 1000 years for something more contemporary at the Ludwig Museum with its collection of Pop Art. Cologne is famous not just for its chocolate; the Lindt Chocolate Museum is a big draw, but for its beer, Kölsch. Gaffel am Dom is a cavernous beer hall, conveniently located next to Hotel Ernst, and a buzzing place to relax over a Kölsch with the locals after a day’s sightseeing. In August, Cologne Jazzweek has grown to become very popular. Further afield, Cologne is the gateway to the glorious Rhine Valley with its abandoned castles and serene vineyards lining the dramatic verdant banks.
Address: Trankgasse 1-5, 50667 Cologne, Germany
Telephone: 0049 221 2701
Email: info@excelsior-hotel-ernst.de
Website: www.excelsior-hotel-ernst.de
