In South Africa’s Free State province, a 49,500-acre private game reserve has taken shape over the past six years. The ambitious project conceptualized by Dutch businessman Michel Perridon and his son Don is shining a light on the lesser-known upper Kalahari, where the restoration and rewilding of old farmland has culminated in the spectacular Maloba Private Game Reserve.
With easy accessibility from major hubs to Kimberley Airport, my journey commences on a Tuesday morning on an Airlink flight from Cape Town International Airport. A mere one-and-a-half hours later, I am collected by the lodge manager and head guide, Adrian (affectionately known as AD), for the 35-minute transfer to the property. On our way to the lodge, we encounter a lone black-backed jackal, a few impalas, a warthog family and a solitary red lechwe.
The Lodge at Maloba is perched on an elevated hill, with sweeping views over the wilderness and the nearby watering hole. Exclusivity is a paramount component of a guest stay, and only five luxury suites occupy prime position at Maloba Private Game Reserve. Arriving early, I am offered a seat on the outside deck or inside the dining area next to the fireplace where I will be enjoying breakfast. But not before the lovely handwashing ritual, which is done after each activity, where you lather the fragrant rain hand soap over a copper basin, wash away with warm water poured from a brass jug, and dry with a hand towel.
Opting for the outside table, the early morning sunshine is pure bliss. Lodge manager Melandri introduces me to head chef Ashton, who will be taking me on a culinary journey over the next four days. Born and raised in South Africa’s Eastern Cape town of Port Elizabeth, Ashton attended chef’s school after which he worked at a hotel in Graaff-Reinet for three years. Tasked to open a restaurant in the bustling suburb of Sandton in Johannesburg, he didn’t enjoy the fast pace and instead set his sights on something a bit less demanding. A four-and-a-half-year stint in the Waterberg was just what he needed to settle into the safari way of doing things. Heading up all food-related intricacies at Maloba Private Game Reserve, the theatrics of a fine dining experience are something he doesn’t take lightly, with taste, texture and presentation being of the utmost importance to him. Crediting his father Lindsey as his inspiration, he learnt a lot from his dad about cooking while growing up. Ashton’s favorite saying when presenting my food is ‘let the flavors speak for themselves’.
After a hearty breakfast of homemade granola with yoghurt and blueberries, eggs Benedict, scrambled eggs, avocado, bacon, a bread basket and fresh fruit, Melandri shows me to my splendiferous suite. Bespoke and specially curated furniture pieces form a wonderful juxtaposition between yesteryear and modern-day safari style. Dark wooden floors pave the way to a combination of leather, wooden and linen furnishings, with scatter cushions creating accents of the encircling fauna and flora. For guests who need their caffeine when they wake, there is a Nespresso machine and milk frother in the armoire, which goes perfectly with the tasty homemade biscuits stored in a glass pot on the writing desk. A vase of proteas is displayed on a wooden table, and the leather chair in the corner is so comfortable that you could very well reserve it for an afternoon nap.
A fireplace in the lounge gets lit on winter evenings when the temperatures drop, and being cocooned in your super-large four-poster bed with the heated blanket switched on will definitely keep you snug. The freestanding bath tub is the ideal place to wash the day away using rain bath salts, or the indoor or outdoor shower will also ensure that you are clean before retiring for the night. With the mosquito nets dropped at turndown, the only disturbance might be a jackal barking in the distance as you drift off into dreamland. On your private outside deck, the pool loungers can be used at any time, with the sparkling pool being the ideal place to cool down on those hot summer days.
Days at Maloba Private Game Reserve are set at a guest’s pace, and with no set schedule, Melandri asks whether I’m game to explore the reserve. It’s a yes, of course! Field guide Anlea meets me at the departure point with the Maloba-branded 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser to see what is out there. Since the reserve is not a Big Five property, there is really so much more to safari than ticking animals off a list. As we turn the corner, a face is staring straight towards us – it’s the most adorable giraffe calf. Mom is tall and statuesque with a very dark pattern, and the little one eventually saunters off to the safety of its mother. Its fluffy ossicones are an indication that it’s still quite young, and it seems curious and intrigued by our presence. A few male kudus are hiding in the bushes, and one pauses momentarily to show off his imposing horns.
Back at the lodge, Ashton has prepared a delicious lunch with the freshest farm-to-table ingredients, forming a satiating salad, together with beef tenderloin. Heading out on our afternoon safari, AD joins us as he wants to try and find Poppy, the female cheetah. Poppy is collared, and a pin is emitted three times a day in the anticipation of spotting her. In such a sizeable reserve, animals don’t stay in one place for a long time, and the hope that she might be resting in the shade of a tree is dashed when she is not where her pin has pointed to. Much to our surprise and delight, AD notices something moving on the plains – it’s an aardvark! They seem to really like the area, and we see a total of four aardvarks, one of the rarest nocturnal animals to find and see on safari. The sun has started setting, and before stopping for sundowners, a herd of Cape Mountain zebra comes into view as the sun dips behind the horizon.
Returning to the lodge, the fires have been lit, creating a warm and cozy atmosphere. Sitting down to dinner in the dining room, Ashton has crafted an impressive menu as he does with every single meal at Maloba. It’s a five-course fine dining affair, and the heroes of tonight’s menu are beetroot and venison. Chef appears to enjoy using specific ingredients in his dishes, with the first amuse-bouche being yellowtail in a passion fruit shell served on a bed of ice, followed by a beetroot ‘bomb’. For starters, it’s ostrich with broccoli, artichoke and potato foam, with the main course being springbok medallions. Dessert is the delectable white chocolate and yuzu mousse, with citrus and raspberry gel served with seasonal berries. Guests who prefer a game drive before the sun has risen are free to do so, but I’ve arranged mine for after breakfast.
Another pin from Poppy has pinged, and Anlea stops the vehicle where she is supposed to be. But she is not there. We start making our way to Farms and Gardens, a working farm on the reserve, to tour the facility and get to grips with how fresh produce enhances the taste of food. Farms and Gardens managers Johan and Ansorie show me around the farm, where they plant seasonal fruits, vegetables and flowers in order for Maloba to be sustainable, and in turn, deliver the tastiest meals. Being able to harvest from the land is part of Maloba’s long-term vision in restoring and protecting the landscape. I am having lunch on the verandah with a salad constructed from lettuce leaves, radish, avocado, baby spinach, cucumber, beetroot and macadamia nuts. Chef has paired the salad with chicken strips and chili banana mayonnaise, and Korean barbecue chicken with sesame seeds. Fresh fruit concludes my meal, and driving back to the lodge, the plains game are out in full force.
I am seated next to the roaring fireplace when Ashton once again presents the menu, and he really pulls out all the stops when it comes to dining at Maloba. Feeling refreshed after a great night’s sleep, the plan is to look for Poppy one more time until we find her. She clearly doesn’t want to be seen, but Anlea and AD persist and inform me that we need to leave the lodge now, as she might still be where they left her. Going to the area where she was, she has moved, and all of a sudden, Anlea points towards five shapes walking behind one another in the distance. We stay with her, respecting her boundaries until she settles in the shade of an umbrella thorn tree. She has five cubs, estimated to be around four months old. They are absolutely gorgeous, and as Poppy starts getting active, they follow her one by one. Passing by a flat area, they are taking a break from walking, and viewing them so close is a privilege I will never forget. Finding fresh leopard tracks in the sand is a sure sign that these elusive cats are there, and the reintroduction of Kalahari black-maned lions will undoubtedly be a game changer.
The morning’s safari is a peaceful drive through the reserve. There is something so magnificent about the landscape at Maloba Private Game Reserve. Noticing the first rays of sun appearing above the rocky outcrops. The mountainous escarpment with its savannah and the wildlife hiding in plain sight. Driving through an area which is frequented by white rhinos and seeing a mom and her older calf. The wild whispers here; it doesn’t shout. It’s the peace. The quiet. A tree swaying in the breeze. A bird serenading just before sunrise.
Maloba Private Game Reserve is a must-visit for seasoned or first-time safari-goers. The connection with nature is undeniable, and apart from the beauty of the surroundings, guests will stay at a reserve with a meaningful purpose. The name Maloba means ‘The Day Before Yesterday’ in the Setswana language. The rhythm of life here quietly transforms you. The blue skies in the daytime and the star-spangled night sky gently move you. Maloba Private Game Reserve is a sparkling jewel in the Free State crown.
