As one of the most remote islands on Earth, the appeal of St Helena Island lies in its exclusivity. What can visitors expect when making the journey to this gem destination halfway between Southern Africa and Brazil? The friendliest people, jaw-dropping landscapes, and astonishing biodiversity.
With limited accessibility once a week on Airlink between Johannesburg and St Helena, spending a week or two discovering the historic significance of the island is a great start to your adventure. Departing from O.R. Tambo International Airport on a Saturday morning, it’s a smooth flight with a short technical stop in Namibia’s Walvis Bay. As we begin the descent to St Helena Island, passengers are filming the landing. The expertise with which the senior pilot touches down amongst the dramatic volcanic cliffs is very impressive.
Making our way to Jamestown, where we will be staying at the luxurious Mantis St Helena for the week, our driver stops the vehicle so that we can photograph the town from the top of the hill. The views are spectacular! Arriving at Mantis St Helena in the capital of Jamestown, the 30-bedroom boutique hotel is set in the original East India Company officers’ barracks built in 1774. I am staying in a Heritage Room, which consists of a bedroom, a writing desk, a television, a bathroom with a shower, double vanities, and a flush loo. The room is located upstairs from the reception area, and looking out of my window, I spot the very steep and popular Jacob’s Ladder.
A plaque on the left-hand side is inscribed with “1829 – Jacob’s Ladder. Restored 2022 through a generous donation from Lord Ashcroft KCMG PC. In memory of his father, Eric, who carried him, as a small boy, up the 699 steps”. Sophia, a walking guide, meets us at the reception for an informative walking tour of Jamestown. We stop by the harbor, which served as a strategic port of call for vessels crossing the South Atlantic. The Portuguese were the first to set foot here in 1502, but it wasn’t until 1659 that the British arrived to claim the island. We pass by a monument entitled ‘The Glorious Dead’, for those who were lost when RFA Darkdale was torpedoed and sank in 1941, as well as The Castle (the main government building), St James Church, the Museum, and the prison.
Dinner is enjoyed at Mantis St Helena, and everyone retires for the night, as tomorrow we are exploring the 47 sq. mile island with Aaron from Aaron’s Adventure Tours. Driving up the steep incline via Sea View and Gordon’s Post, St Helena Island’s beauty unfurls with points of interest including Deadwood Plain (Boer POW campsite), Flagstaff, White Hill, Levelwood, Bellstone, Sandy Bay, and Ladder Hill. We are dining at Dan’s, a pop-up restaurant with delectable fare made and served by Dan himself.
Today is Napoleonic day, and after breakfast at Mantis St Helena, Craig from William’s Taxis & Tours transports us to Briars Pavilion, Longwood House, and Napoleon’s tomb. Exiled to St Helena in 1815, Napoleon arrived on board HMS Northumberland. The pavilion at Briars served as his home for two months, and he spent the remainder of his days at Longwood House until his death in 1821 at the age of 51. A storied existence, he was hailed as one of the greatest generals in history. We are having supper at Anne’s Place, which is across the way from Mantis St Helena. Hearty and homemade food is served in a festive atmosphere.
We are collected by Barry for a visit to Jaye’s Guest House. This quaint property is owned by husband and wife Paul and Jaye and is a lovely bed and breakfast option for visitors who are looking for a comfortable and relaxing stay. A tour of Plantation House (the Governor’s residence) takes us back in time to an era of grandeur. Dominated by large paintings of King George V and Queen Mary, the most notable feature is the dining room, which can accommodate up to 22 guests for formal dining.
Plantation House is also the home to Jonathan, a Seychelles giant tortoise who holds two Guinness World Records. In 2019, he received the world record for ‘World’s oldest living land animal’, and in 2022, he celebrated his 190th birthday and received the world record for ‘oldest chelonian to have ever lived’.
At Farm Lodge Country House Hotel in St Paul’s District, owner Maureen has prepared a hearty lunch for us. We are given a tour of her hotel, which comprises spacious bedrooms and has an authentic feel. Just around the corner from Mantis St Helena is the Blue Lantern restaurant, slated to serve the best steaks in Jamestown. Whoever said this was not wrong – the steak is the perfect medium-rare and is very tasty.
For visitors to St Helena Island, the ocean holds a certain allure, and whether you prefer to go kayaking in and around the harbor with Seahawk Odyssey or are ready to embark on a marine safari with Wicked Wahoo, the sea provides a myriad of activities. Leaving the pier on a fishing boat to see what we can find, pods of dolphins are swimming in close proximity, and some are jumping out of the water. At Egg Island, various sea birds have nesting sites, and the sheer rocky outcrops are absolutely stunning! Visitors can don snorkeling gear to have a look at life underwater, and fellow guests Dawn, Andrew, and Will get up close to the shipwreck SS Papanui, while Kavita and I watch in admiration how they take like ducks to water. A weekly and well-liked event is the fish fry dinner at the St Helena Yacht Club, where guests can mingle with the locals while feasting on fish and chips.
This morning, guide Eddie takes us on an endemic experience tour, where he highlights some of the work being done to protect the native and endangered species. One of them is the Saint Helena plover, also known as a wirebird. Its name is due to its thin legs, and these birds are absolutely adorable.
The post box walks are another favorite activity, and these scenic strolls vary in difficulty and elevation. The Deck is tonight’s venue for dinner, and chef Roy’s 3-course menu is what makes diners return time after time. Only open every Thursday, guests can feast on a choice of starters, main course, and dessert.
Visiting the Museum of St Helena, one is taken through the island’s past by means of artifacts and display cabinets housing important memorabilia. Historian Adam explains the significance of some of the most historical happenings, such as the maritime heritage and military history, which are showcased here. He is at hand to lead the libation and loss tour, a stark reminder of the slave trade and the suppression and abolition of it in the 19th century. Barrie later transports us to the home of Island Images founder Derek and his lovely wife, Linda. Linda has made the most incredible food, with sushi as starters, lobster and tuna for the main course, and chocolate brownies for dessert.
Having a morning at leisure is a wonderful way to conclude this once-in-a-lifetime trip to St Helena Island. The memories will last a lifetime, especially the privilege of spending time with the Saints (people who were born here). It makes me appreciate not only the beauty and magnificence of the island, but being amongst some of the warmest and sincerest people I have ever met has left an indelible impression.
