California’s Sonoma County is the chill cousin of Napa Valley. The wine estates, tasting rooms, and vineyard experiences are deliciously authentic and casual. Don’t let the laidback atmosphere fool you because the 250 vintners in the region are serious winemakers who produce top-scoring wines.
A remarkable example of a top-producing estate in Sonoma lies just outside the charming town of Healdsburg – Vérité Estate. Nestled inside the appellations of Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, and Knights Valley, the Vérité Estate combines the timeless traditions of French winemakers with the cowboy sensibilities of Californians. Jess Jackson, of Kendall Jackson fame, met Bordeaux winemaker Pierre Seillan in the 1990s while visiting France. Convinced Jackson could make exceptional wines in Sonoma, he invited Seillan to visit the area in 1997 and convinced him to move his family to California. In 1998, Seillan produced his first wines under Vérité.
A family endeavor, Pierre’s daughter Hélène joined as an assistant winemaker in 2006, and his wife, Monique, has been a powerhouse behind the scenes for over half a century, while their son, Nicolas, is also intimately involved with the estate. We spoke of Pierre’s “old school” winemaking philosophy; he is definitely a “soil guy.” He explained the complexities of managing “micro-crus” (a term coined by Pierre to describe how each vine in a cru section is exposed to microclimates and must be cared for individually) and how the soil, which is part of the terroir, must be respected. The same grape, grown in the same conditions in different soils, tastes and produces wines entirely differently, which he learned decades ago in Bordeaux and then applied the knowledge in Sonoma County. We spent almost five hours together; during that time, he and Hélène did not sugarcoat the rough patches. I learned much about their hearts intertwined with the branches of the vines.
Another Vérité (truth) about wine is that it is only as good as the quality and integrity of the winemakers. As Pierre explained, their success ultimately depends on their team and decision-making philosophy: “…we decide as a team which direction we go after everyone gives input, and even after many opinions, we come to an agreement and move forward together.”
When Pierre first came to Sonoma, he quickly learned what not to do. He said, “I was afraid of the heat,” but he wasn’t afraid to do something different. Pierre immediately understood that he could not ferment too long. Press once, twice, three times, and for a maximum of two weeks. He developed a way whereby the tannins become paralyzed in the skin, and with less contact with the skins, he could produce wines with fewer tannins – the French way, indeed.
The wines, since inception, have scored well, and the crowning glory of his efforts came to fruition with Le Désire and La Joie in 2005, where it’s first perfect score of 100 points with Robert Parker. La Muse’s first perfection came in 2007. We spoke about how he achieves such high levels of winemaking, and he said the key is, “We adjust the ‘style’ of the wines. Too much excess ruins the style. We try to balance the blends so that the goût “taste” isn’t overwhelming or doesn’t end with a bite that puts people off.”
Over the years, I have enjoyed visiting world-class barrel rooms, but visiting Vérité’s barrel chai was a religious experience. While touring the room with Pierre, I told him that I felt like I was in a church in France, whereupon he flashed a wide grin and then explained that his son Nicolas had indeed designed the entire estate inspired by a cloister concept of the Southern French Abbaye of Moissac. Adjacent to the chai are wine cellars and tasting rooms of various sizes, allowing them to conduct small and large group events effortlessly.
The visit to the barrel chai was divine, and what followed was a heavenly experience. We began with a vertical tasting followed by the “Library Wine and Food Pairing,” curated by their Estate Chef.
The 2019 horizontal tasting included a 99-point (Parker and James Suckling) La Muse, most similar to Pomerol’s wines. With soft tannins, elegant spice, and great minerality, it has the maturity of Merlot and is best drunk at the 20-year mark. Second in the flight was the 100-point (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, The Wine Spectator) La Joie, which is most reminiscent of a Pauillac vintage. Earthy, with a bit more tannins because of the 84% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, it has a lot of finesse. Again, in 20 years, this wine will be perfection. Le Désir Cabernet Franc (83%) grapes are grown in limestone and clay; this wine is an ode to the Saint-Émilion region of Bordeaux. It is a robust, structured wine yet has soft tannins with heavenly home-baked buttery and cinnamon aromas with hints of the California bay laurel and rose petal perfumes.
Having spent hours together at this point, we moved on to a splendid lunch prepared by the affable Chef de Cuisine Justin Wangler and served by the dashing Brit Ed Newman. An elegant table in the main event space contrasted with the casual atmosphere, which made it feel more like having a special holiday family meal with my favorite relatives—such was the perfect vibe for Sonoma.
The first course is a 2023 Diamant (diamond) with a light and flavorful Halibut Ceviche. The wine has a clean nose and finish. It is a Sauvignon Blanc inspired by the Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux region. It is fruity but not sweet and has no oak pallet.
Next, we devoured a local rock cod with Dungeness Crab, cauliflower, and divine caviar paired with the 2004 La Muse (98 points Robert Parker, Jr.), which is based on Merlot and influenced by Pomerol. The first nose was shy but then bloomed subtly into notes of cherry and plum.
The main dish of Liberty Farm’s savory duck breast with celery root and baby vegetables paired with a 100-point (Lisa Perrotti-Brown) 2021 La Joie was perfection. A meaty wine with a dark purple color and aromas of black currants, plums, and tobacco, it finishes long and is very energetic.
Last but certainly not least, my favorite wine of the estate – a 2015 Le Désir (Desire), accompanied by a hearty yet delicate and scrumptious Petit Basque dessert with fresh figs and homemade fig bread, was the superlative ending to the ultimate food and wine-pairing lunch. Le Désir is a polished and structured wine with a delicate balance of hard minerality, leather, and tobacco features complemented by the expressions of wild blackberries and the hint of roses in the nose. The Cabernet Franc and Merlot combo is mostly complex and elegant. Scoring 100 points from Lisa Perrotti-Brown and 98 points from James Suckling, this is the best wine to drink with close friends over a special meal.
The result is a solid truth for Vérité: exceptional wine palettes of top quality, taste, and style. Click here to learn more about visiting Vérité to experience Estate Tasting, Library Comparison Tasting, or Library Wine and Food Pairing.
